Hi so i most of the way done building a Turbo 350 3 speed and ive ran into a issue. I'm trying to put in the pump assembly/Stator and it wont go all th e way in. I thought i didnt have the direct drum down all the way but after i read jakeshoes walk through it i found out it was down all the way all along. Now i have no clue what its getting hung up on or hitting.
It stops about 1/4 of an inch from the pump being flush with the case
Like the last poster said-how did you align the pump halves? If they are not aligned, the pump will stick like you are experiencing. Also, did you replace the bushings inside the pump stator? I have had it happen that new bushings will hang up on the input drum turbine shaft. If you did not replace those bushings, disregard this. If you did replace those bushings, pull the input drum out, set it on a flat surface, then put the pump onto the input drum making sure that it will seat all the way down. If it does not go all the way down, you have found your problem.
If you did not properly align the pump halves because you don't have the tool, you can use the case to do this.
Ok so I was in the middle of a move but now I'm back at it.
I just realigned the pump halves using the case but have not yet tried to reinstall it yet. I did find out where it Apears to have been binding up though. The plate holding the springs in place is dented in. I have another or i can just straighten that one out but wanted to confirm before I jacked up another
it is in between the 2 pump bolts that are closest together at about the 9 o'clock position. (Bolts in place to show location)
Also I had thought. is it possible I'm trying to use a needle bearing in a thrust washer style pump? How do I tell witch style is witch? I do not recall on disassembly as it has been a while.
try to put the pump in with out the drums if it drops in its a end play issue if it still dont its not aligned right make sure u remove the oring when testing it will make it easier to remove the pump best way to align it is lossen the bolts were the two halfs can move and drop it in the case upside down with the drums out then tighten the pump bolts to 18-20 lbs
Pulled it back a part used a thrust washer on the pump instead of the Torrington. The pump goes on all the way now but I have no end play and I can't turn it by hand at all, even from the output shaft.. I'll have to try with vice grip tommorow as I understand it's supposed to be very hard to spin by hand on a fresh rebuild.
best in play on a 350 is less then .010 end play if it turns smooth with vice grips you should be ok when u did the rebuild did u change any of the thrust washers or planetary gears of any hard parts if u just did seals and clutches that will not affect the end play had the trans ever been apart before
I didn't change any of the hard parts other than the Sprag and race and cut down piston for the 5 friction. Planetary gears stayed the same. I have a full rebuild kit so I was trying to replace as much as I could. I made the mistake of not noting where it had Torringtons and where it had thrust washers.
I'm pretty sure i have a thrust washer planetary but when I did that my intermediate clearence was way off it was only close when I put in 3 extra steels. With a Torrington it was about .014.
do u know what yr unit it is 78 up has the bearing style do u have pics of the planetary by any chance the intermidate clearance is best beween .035 and .50 the factory says .06 to .100 but that will make a delay 1-2 shift u can get over sized steel plates or scrap the material off a l and r friction and cut a piece out of the plate and put it under the intermediate piston to push the piston toward the clutches i perfer using the over sized steels though
back to end play check how it turns in park if its to tight it will bind bad with the planetaries locked in park
You should be able to turn the input by hand...With a rubber mallet,give it a light/medium smack to the input shaft and the output shaft INWARD 1 or 2 times each,going back and forth.Your not gonna hurt anything.That'll help push out some of the assembly lube from whats behind the bearings/thrust washers,and give you a better reading,and make the input easier to turn..And if it's right,you don't need any vise grips,unless you have a clearence or tight bushing issue.And you would notice a tight front half bushing issue if you put the drums on the pump and air checked them thru the pump before you assembled everything into the case.And I'll assume everything in the back half spun easily after they were put in the case.Give it a try.
The new bushings in the pump are pretty tight. When pulling it out it will pull out the whole input shaft and drum assembly out with it unless I'm pulling on it while taping on the input shaft with a mallet.
I'll get some pics of the planetary after work. And also try all the suggested ideas.
I apreciate the help. I normally don't have this much trouble with this kinda stuff.
Ok.You should be able to put each drum onto the pump and turn them with very little resistance...If you replaced the 3 small bushings in the pump stator,those can give you fits as far as putting too much drag on the input.No other bushing in that trans really falls into that catagory of creating problems.I changed those bushings only if i absolutely had to,and sometimes the result being the fitment was too tight...Then it was time to break out some trans soaked 600 grit paper and slowly sand the bushings,fit the input,sand, re-fit the input,until I could put the input into the stator and spin it.A little time consuming,but it had to be done.Sounds like you might be having the same issue.
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