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Old 03-30-2013, 11:47 AM
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T-350 Rebuild Tips

If you have to do this outside .......use a big garbage bag and put the tranny inside......that way it will be protected during the rebuild while you're doing other things.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend building/using a table with a 4" hole in it.....so you can set the output shaft through it and have it Vertical while you're installing some of the stuff.

Also here's a pic of a couple of bolts and some wire to make removing and installing the pump easier while you're messing around with end play, clutch stack clearance, etc.

Also a pic of a home made dial indicator stand. I welded a 3/4 pipe short nipple to an old brake rotor...and used some other parts I had laying around.







z
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:38 PM
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End Play

When I tore it down I saw I already had the max size pump thrust washer, i.e. .010 thick........and my end play seemed like a lot...like .039 or so.

So when I rebuilt it I put a couple of .0010 shims in the back end.

When I checked the end play after assembly, I had NO end play....lol......so at first I thought I'd have to tear it all apart again to take out those shims....but then remembered they had put another pump thrust washer in the kit.... .008.....so I used that one and now the end play was gut and tite.....

Btw.....CTPowerTrain is a great place to get parts:

CT Powertrain Products - Professional Grade Transmission Parts

.z
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:23 AM
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Btw, after I put her together, I noticed a round thin (.01?) flat plastic disk about 4" in diameter in my seals/rebuild kit........what this does is help the lip seals on the pistons go in........you stick it in and roll it around the piston........too bad I didn't notice this before, but one could easily make one of these............z
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:11 PM
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Clicky Torque Wrenches

Are GARBAGE for the most part. NEVER trust them.

But you can use them if you find out where they're wrong.

SO, if you have a vise, you can secure a 3/8 x 1/2 or smaller adapter in the vise, so it's sticking out horizontally

Then stick on the torque wrench so the handle is also pretty much horizontal.

On the wrench/handle, measure 12" (or 6" if it's a small one), from the center of the end that attaches to the sockets.

Then take a known weight and hang it with a string from the handle ...either 12" or 6" out.

Turn in the handle until the wrench will support the weight without clicking.

Then turn out the handle until it clicks.

Now you know your wrench is set to that weight.

Then you can turn the handle in or out using the gradations until you get to the torque you want.

Torque is the Weight x the distance from the center of the tip where the socket goes.

So if you have a 15 lb weight hanging 12" from the center your torque wrench is at 15 ft lbs. (15 x 1 ft)

15 lbs 6" from the center, is 7.5 ft lbs: 15 x .5 ft

12 inch lbs makes up 1 ft lb.

If you had 15 lbs at 1 inch, you'd have 15 inch lbs.

100 inch lbs is 10 lbs hanging 10 inches from the center. 10lbs x 10 in = 100 inch lbs.

Try to be close to the torque you're gonna be using....i.e. don't calibrate it for 20 ft lbs and then turn using the gradations til you get to 80 ft lbs.....Cause of how inaccurate these things are....at least the cheaper ones......if you got a $300 one it might be more accurate.....but I'd STILL calibrate it using a known weight.

etc.

z

Last edited by zardiw; 04-04-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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Just realized another GREAT place to get parts and trannys:

Jake's: Jake's Performance

z
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