OK...gonna try to summarize all the different problems questions, MIS Information etc.....and will post pics of a complete rebuild.
1. There are only 2 tools that you absolutely need to buy, or make.
A. When you get all the way into the back of the transmission where the reverse clutch lives, you need a tool to compress it so you can get a snap ring out. There's pics of it on the web, but you can make one also using a piece of all thread, a U shaped piece that fits over the clutch spring housing, and a flat piece of thick bar stock that will go on the back of the transmission. The all thread goes through the hole.......(by this time you already have the output shaft removed). You put nuts on both ends, and tighten the one on the flat bar to compress that thing. And you can also use that tool to do the other clutch packs.
2. The other 2 tricky parts are removing the output shaft little tiny hidden snap ring at the end of that output shaft. It's hard to see, and even harder to get out. SO, invest in a pair of external snap ring pliers. These should have a SMALL front end, and it should be BENT, so you can use it to get behind these snap rings. These will also come in handy when you remove the larger snap ring on the reverse clutch above.
Having said all that......I WAS able to remove that tiny snap ring using a couple of dental type picks. One of the picks had a multi bent front end on it that made this possible.
I also removed the rear clutch snap ring using a couple of thin screwdrivers......one of which I had bent the front of to make it angled.
OH....and one other thing........Does anybody have a picture of WHERE that 'rear oil port' is that you have to blow compressed air in to remove the reverse piston mentioned above.
And finally.....when you get to the part where you remove that BIG internal snap ring that goes around the inside of the case.......and you can SEE the anti clunk spring.........well.....at that point Sessions says to just wack the output shaft HARD with a rubber/plastic/wood mallet, or even slam the whole case down to where the output shaft hits on a piece of wood or something.
Well.....this is wrong....lol......because in my case the whole assembly had rotated so that there was no way it was coming out of there.....and the anti clunk spring was KEEPING it rotated......it was a mystery on how to get that out, but I found a method.
If that anti clunk spring is on the top left side, grab the right end of it TIGHT with some small vise grips and BEND that sucker out and down.....that makes it loose enough to rotate that assembly to where you get it CLOSE to where it will line up with the lugs and come out.......THEN you wack the output shaft hard and it will pop out...........z
1. There are only 2 tools that you absolutely need to buy, or make.
A. When you get all the way into the back of the transmission where the reverse clutch lives, you need a tool to compress it so you can get a snap ring out. There's pics of it on the web, but you can make one also using a piece of all thread, a U shaped piece that fits over the clutch spring housing, and a flat piece of thick bar stock that will go on the back of the transmission. The all thread goes through the hole.......(by this time you already have the output shaft removed). You put nuts on both ends, and tighten the one on the flat bar to compress that thing. And you can also use that tool to do the other clutch packs.
2. The other 2 tricky parts are removing the output shaft little tiny hidden snap ring at the end of that output shaft. It's hard to see, and even harder to get out. SO, invest in a pair of external snap ring pliers. These should have a SMALL front end, and it should be BENT, so you can use it to get behind these snap rings. These will also come in handy when you remove the larger snap ring on the reverse clutch above.
Having said all that......I WAS able to remove that tiny snap ring using a couple of dental type picks. One of the picks had a multi bent front end on it that made this possible.
I also removed the rear clutch snap ring using a couple of thin screwdrivers......one of which I had bent the front of to make it angled.
OH....and one other thing........Does anybody have a picture of WHERE that 'rear oil port' is that you have to blow compressed air in to remove the reverse piston mentioned above.
And finally.....when you get to the part where you remove that BIG internal snap ring that goes around the inside of the case.......and you can SEE the anti clunk spring.........well.....at that point Sessions says to just wack the output shaft HARD with a rubber/plastic/wood mallet, or even slam the whole case down to where the output shaft hits on a piece of wood or something.
Well.....this is wrong....lol......because in my case the whole assembly had rotated so that there was no way it was coming out of there.....and the anti clunk spring was KEEPING it rotated......it was a mystery on how to get that out, but I found a method.
If that anti clunk spring is on the top left side, grab the right end of it TIGHT with some small vise grips and BEND that sucker out and down.....that makes it loose enough to rotate that assembly to where you get it CLOSE to where it will line up with the lugs and come out.......THEN you wack the output shaft hard and it will pop out...........z