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T-350 Woes..
Just finished rebuilding a T-350 and having problems with the 1-2 shift. For reference, I rebuilt the trans doing the "double feed direct modification", blocked the 1-2 accumulator in the case in the full forward position, tig welded up the 2-3 accumulator hole on the separator plate then ground it flush, I also drilled out both the 1-2, and 2-3 feed hole on the separator plate to .125".
I used Alto red eagle frictions in the direct drum, and Borg Warner clutches for the rest. I replaced the band, filter, and all O-rings, and sealing rings. We installed the trans and it seems to work okay in that it has all 3 gears, and reverse. The problem is that it only stays in 1st gear for about 5 feet before it shifts to second. Even if I put the shifter in L1 to manually lock it in 1st, it still won't start off in 1st, or won't stay in first. As soon as you let off the brake and begin accelerating, it immediately shifts to 2nd. 2nd & 3rd seem to be very strong. Any ideas as to what I should be looking at? If it matters, when I had the trans out, I managed to bend the S link up pretty bad. I *think* I put it back in correctly though as I lined up the manual valve so that it was just flush with the end of the VB when in the "D" range. At this point, I'm going to guess that it is the governor sticking, but I thought I would throw it out to you guys to see your thoughts. I can build the H*E*DOUBLE HOCKEY STICKS out of 700's and 4L60E's but I've just not had any experience with the T-350's. Thanks in advance to anyone who replies!!
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The govenor springs may have given up the ghost... If they open too soon it will shift like you say.
Find another govenor... pull the plate and check the springs between the two. I fiddle with dirtcars. IF they run the t-350, they put a ziptie-wire-weld the govenor weights closed. They can shift when THEY want to. Bad thing they can DOWN shift at any time too. They sell govenor springs, check ebay Beware of the shipping charges. Nothing like a item weighing a 1/2 ounce and have a 15.00$ shipping charge on it. Hope I have helped some. Phil |
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Phil, I'll be sure and look at the governor closely. When I rebuilt the trans I replaced the governor drive gear and I was sure to check and make sure the valve internally was not sticky, or sticking. I did not however think to check the condition of the springs.
I'll stick another governor in it and see what happens. |
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350
if your govenor checks out ok(i think it will)being it shifts to second in manual low tells me you got a leakage problem.IMO your 2/3 acumulator circut is bleeding into the 2nd(intermediate)band apply bore causing the band to apply after the car starts to move,this can bee from worn out seal ring or by welding and grinding the seporator plate.better off removing acc springs and you can in stall cup plugs or tap and hex plugs to block feeds.i would get another plate(maybee a cheap shift kit transgo,you get a plate and gaskets)re drill your feed holes as before ok good luck paul b
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Did you check intermediate clutch clearance while you were assembling it? Clearance can be easily checked through the "window" in the case, just in front of the valve body. The intermediate piston is in the pump, so it's possible you may have a crossleak between the pump halves, or a shift valve issue.
Frank |
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Quote:
I believe anglia427 is talking about the coasting band that is applied in manual 2nd gear... since there was welding on the separator plate near the area of the servo for the coasting. If the band applies when not designed to in manual 1 gear, weird stuff can happen
__________________
At the Bonneville Salt Flats, first gear is known as 130 mph. |
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Quote:
Frank |
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