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Image is from a 1977 Chevrolet Unit Repair Manual.
OEM check ball location: ![]() If you are installing a shift kit, the kit instructions should be followed as to number of check balls and their location. |
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which ones get eliminated
when they are taken out which one are eliminated and which ones are kept?
this trans was supposed to be built for performance, when it went out the torque convertor ate itself, I had a friend go through it, then the car was stored for several years because Im in the military and had move, I just recently got the car back and I took it apart cleaned inspected and tested everything, upon disassembly it didnt have any of the check balls in it, I am not sure what shift kit it has. I have seen where people say to use 6, 5 or 3 check balls..... not knowing which if any shift kit it has which combo should I or can I use? At the moment I dont care about racing it, I just want to be able to drive it!!! thanks for any and all advice1 |
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If you took it apart and it had no check balls installed- there is your "answer".
There are too many different shift kits to count, they use anywhere from all to 2 check balls. I'm not a professional transmission guy, I can only go by what I've seen. FWIW, there are some TH400's that come stock w/7 checks. If it were me, I'd go get myself a shift kit w/separator plate (you need gaskets anyhow), or go to http://www.jakesperformance.com/ There, he has a tutorial on modding the TH400 for better shifts. It uses 5 of the 6 check balls I showed you earlier, IIRC. The check balls are nothing more than 1/4" ball bearings (were rubber/rubber coated in some transmissions) and can be found at any hardware store. |
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I got check balls now but wasnt sure how many to use or which locations to use them in.
I wasnt sure if they were left out by accident when my friend went through it or if they just werent supposed to be there at all. at the moment I have them in the locations from jakes website, Im just not sure whats been done to it so didnt know it it would hurt to use them or not use them. |
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also the direct feed mode appears to have been done but the reverse feed side of the center support isnt pluged. Does it have to be plugged?
CUT AND PASTED FROM JAKES WEBSITE "Now that you have removed the seals you have created a pressure leak in 3rd gear. This must be corrected. The oil fed to 3rd gear will travel through the drum and leak back out the reverse side of the center support, through the case and valve body and leak past the manual valve into the pan. To correct the leak created by dual feeding, the reverse feed side of the center support must be plugged. That can be done in the center support itself by tapping the hole and installing a set screw or it can be done with a cup plug in the case at the reverse feed into the center support. The reverse feed is the hole shown on the far right in the pic above. 3rd feed is the leftmost hole, and the center hole" |
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To know if the mods have been done requires you to be able to see that the lip seal has been left off the inside of the direct drum and that the second sealing ring has been left off the center support.
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you can plug the proper hole in the center support.. or the case or the separator plate as long as the correct passage is plugged
__________________
At the Bonneville Salt Flats, first gear is known as 130 mph. |
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so i will plug it and, is there any reason not to use the 5 check balls as suggested by jakes website?
Thanks for all the input by the way. the help is truly appreciated! |
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Quote:
Use 5 if you like.
__________________
At the Bonneville Salt Flats, first gear is known as 130 mph. |
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Quote:
The trans only needs 2 check balls to function in automatic mode.. that will firm up shifts since you remove 3 check balls. The bath tub location and the hole directly forward at the front need check balls in them for automatic shift mode you are using
__________________
At the Bonneville Salt Flats, first gear is known as 130 mph. |
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thank you
I hoping to be able to get the trans finished and installed no later than this weekend, and HOPEFULLY it will work and I can drive it again. Of course if it doesnt work I'll be trying to figure out why but I will let you know either way. |
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torque convertor problem
having trouble with torque convertor install.
it wont go on, it looks like the hole for the pump and bearing are out of line a little for some reason I'll have to investigate more tommarrow. anybody got ideas, what I did wrong? |
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