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T bucket build?

26K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  SMF Speed&Custom 
#1 ·
Well I am looking into ANOTHER project I want to do probably sometime after christmas. I have 3 hot rods already but want another! :D Anyway's I have been looking at Speedway Motors 27 T bucket kit with the chassis and body... Does anyone have any suggestions on this kit? I know there is a site called something like www.tbucket.com where pick it all out and they ship it to you and put it together, etc etc. Well they are a little too pricey for me and I don't mind having to do some work myself. I do plan to do EVERYTHING myself from the body and paint work, engine and tranny, etc. I wan't to be able to get the body and a complete rolling chassis minues the wiring, engine and tranny and lights, and steering column. I have a 3 speed tranny and possibly a 302 for it. I want to go with a 60's style look I guess you can say.
http://www.circlecityhotrods.com/gallery.html
That is basically the style I am going for in that website with that orange T.... What I mean the style I mean the stance, wheels and small things like that. I would like to throw the small round tank up front though instead of in the bed since I won't be getting the bed....
Any info here on the quality of Speedway's bodies and chassis would be appreciated. Also I really want to see a picture of someone that used that kit so anything like that would be great too.
Thanks a lot for any help!
 
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#3 ·
:D I looked into that tank for the front and they are pretty expensive and too small.. I will skip on that one. Anyways, thanks for that link that should help me out. If I could find me a steel bodied T I would buy it... Too rare to come by around here. I know I see some online with small blocks in them already and everything and they go for about 5-7 grand complete, just need new paint and things like new headers and just a clean up basically. All the ones I find online are either in the west somewhere in Cali or up North.... Doing all the work myself will/should help me out a lot in cost like the paint and materials. Since I am doing jobs on the side painting and doing body work on cars I have HEAPS of materials left over and getting HOK paint shouldn't be a problem and I can get that for.... cheap. I have a 3 speed tranny that needs the reverse fixed that came out of my 66 F100 and I think that will do fine with a built 302. I have a 57 Chevy rear end with 3.83 gears and drums so I POSSIBLY can use that if the width is right. So the big things are kind of taken care of, it's just the small things such as the wiring and lights and steering column, brakes, etc that will be the expensive stuff in the end...
Any more help here is still appreciated, thanks again!
 
#6 ·
Did that already.... I have to call them because that isn't the only question I have. I don't wan't to email them a million questions. I have a list of about 10 things I need to ask them. On their chassis they don't specify whether or not their front ends and all are chromed. The coil overs in the rear are it says but that's it. Also I am guessing it doesn't come with a rear end but it says to upgrade or add rebuilt Ford 9" axles for like 366 or something.
Say I go about building and getting this kit. When I register it and all then do I register it as a new car? If so then I am guessing I need to do all that inspection bullcrap?
 
#7 ·
t-bucket

i have done a lot of bussiness with speedway ..very good and quick ..not a worng part yet ...but i did see a speedway t-bucket at the swap meet at fortworth in april and the body was'nt very impressive ....maybe they have improved the mold but i would try to find one to look at first.. i may just be to pickey.. i am in arkansas and i always recive my speedway parts within 2 days
 
#8 ·
Was the body wavy or the seams and all just not clean? I would go buy some resin and fiberglass mat just in case and smooth things out if I have to. I am guessing that when I get the body I will let it sit in the sun a TON. People told me that is what you have to do before doing ANYTHING to the body. By the time I start this thing it will probably be when spring time comes around so I have some more time to plan and save. I looked at Total Performance but like I said, their prices seem high and looks like from the last time I was looking at their site that their prices have gone up a bit... I am picky too so that is why I want to make sure first before jumping into things.

Thanks a lot for the help though guy's, keep it comming!
 
#9 ·
t-bucket

yeah the body looked cheap and actually thin ...i have done a lot of glass build up ...i made the center pice for my top on my 32 and the t-bucket just looked like a lot of work for something that should require just a little work and paint for the price .. my father has been in the body work bussiness for 42 years and he also noticed the quality .. he is looking also and decided to go for the 32 3 window coupe glass body from downs ..but there ya go again also costly...good question about the chassie ...the one i saw was just the body ... i run across some metal t bodies around here sometimes .. and have a friend building a 27 now ...i know its hard to buy something you cant look at first so the fiberglass t would be a hard choice for me also
 
#10 ·
Heh well now you got me thinking. Speedway said they will call me so when they do I will ask them about their new molds and see if they have changed. I remember people told me to ask them SOMETHING about the glass like the thickness, how much resin and mat, etc but I don't remember. I mean, if the body is ok and not real bad and looks pretty decent then I will be ok since it's really not THAT expensive. And you get what you pay for obviously. Thing I will have to find out right now before I go any further and waste time is about inspection and how I register it... Normally in most states can you register it as a 27 T bucket or do I have to say it's an 06? Also what about VIN numbers and that sort of thing on the chassis, etc?
 
#11 ·
t-bucket

yeah i'd ask also ...in arkansas now you dont have to have a inspection on cars ...so far mine have had titles and vins already ...but the next one will have to have all that red tape done ..now we have hot rod tags here .i understand that they have now changed the antique tag system here now also
 
#12 ·
For fiberglass you mainly want to know the thickness of the body. That will give you a good clue as to how sturdy it is. Like everyone else, speedway tries to give a compromise between cost and quality -- "you get what you pay for". The raw materials and labor cost more for a thicker, better quality body, so the end product is more. If cost is the big concern, you'll just have to work a bit more on what you get. Note that once the body is mounted on the chassis it won't be as flimsy. If you've ever built a wall for a house/shop/whatever, the framework is kind of flimsy until you get the sheathing or drywall on. Once that body is bolted to a frame it will stiffen it a bit.

Have you looked at a T frame? Not much to it! If you have a welder and trust your welds, go down to the local metal supply and buy a couple 20' sticks of 2"x3" 11 gauge rectangular steel tubing. That will give you enough for the rails and crossmember, and a mistake or two. you can get front spring mounts that weld on from Speedway. I prefer to use the square tubing for everything -- crossmembers and rails. A lot of Ts use a tubular crossmember for the front, but I've seen a few home built frames with a square front crossmember and flat bumper brackets bolted on the side and extending forward (when they had a bumper). It's rather obvious that someone built the frame, but that's not a bad thing unless you want it to look original.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the info. I thought about building my own frame but I don't know what the demension has to be to fit on that Speedway Motors body. I would rather use round tubing in the front and keep that original look too. If I got the Speedway frame with it then I would strengthen it up a tad more. Now you got me thinking about building my own frame again. Any sites on how to do it, demensions for a 27 T like Speedways? I thint Speedway Motors chassis has a 10" drop in the back but I would probably like a tad bit more of a drop on the front and rear. The rear I can just make the drop more on the frame rails but what about the front? Also around how much would the square tubing be if I get it from a metal company (not sure where I will find one at around here).... Will I save considerably a big amount doing it myself? Another thing I don't know how to do is make the Speedway front end go onto the frame rails that I build. If I have to make all these little brackets and this and that then I don't even think it's worth it.... Any info on this still is greatly appreciated!
Thanks a lot!

Shawn-
 
#14 ·
Wel I have aTotal Performance 23 Bucket kit and other than a few small items, I dont think you can beat the quality for the dollar. Their support is also excelent. I can honestly say I dont think I have see a speedway kit but I have seen thers and they just dont measure up. The Spirit industries kits look nice but I spoke with someone at a show who built one and he said their support was awfull. The nice thing about the Total Performance kits is all the hardware fits together very nicely. If you shop arround you can do a little better on some of the accessories. Their frames are solid and square. The thing I liked is I didnt really have to fab anything. I dont havea lot of spare time and the TP kit goes together rather quick. Someone with good wrench skills could probably do it in 40 Hours or so.
I love mine !!!!!! ;)
 
#16 ·
FWIW, California Custom Roadsters sells everything that you need. Their body is stretched 4" and I think you can get them even longer. They have been building these things for about 40 years.
They also sell T bucket plans that are very complete. Try www. californiacustomroadsters.com
My last one was steel with an operating door (rare) on a custom tube chassis. I used a Ford 8" rear with coil over shocks and tubular radius rods (and a panhard rod). The front suspension was from an old top fuel car that had early Ford spindles and a model A cross leaf spring mounted to a suicide perch off of the front crossmember.. I fabricated the radius rods and ran a panhard rod on the front. The steering was a reversed Corvair unit and a column from Specialty cars. I ran Willwood front disc brakes with the stock Ford drums on the rear.
Mine weighed 1560 ready to run with a 331" chevy and a turbo 350. I ran 295 50X15s on the rear and 165 15's on the front. It was more fun than a person should be allowed to have and was really quick.
The big problem was being in the right lane on the freeway and having an 18 wheeler pass you...THOSE TIRES ARE HUGE !!!
 
#17 ·
Well to update you guys on this. I think I am getting this all original steel 1929 Ford Hi Boy 5 Window Coupe. 3 inch chop, all the glass, etc. Has EVERYTHING besides motor, interior, headlights, wiring, motor and tranny. I have everything for it besides the headlights, wiring and carpet. Oh and it needs paint but the body work is done like rust taken care of, new steel floors welded all in, etc. Not gonna believe how much I am getting it for though.... I probably shouldn't say nothing because I feel bad for getting it from this guy for this much. :D If you are thinking about 6 grand or so then your not even close... Thinking above 6 grand then even more off... Thinking under 4 grand (way under 4 grand) then your really close. :D
 
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