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Solo,
I am wanting to do the same thing. I hadn't found any info yet, but I have a few pics of extended cab and 4dr trucks of that model. I have a 50 1/2 ton that i am working on, and i have a parts truck that i had thought about making a 4dr truck out of. Let me know if you want those pics. |
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That's a good idea Madd. Since you mentioned it, I begin to wonder about those models. Are they to an exact scale. I mean to the point that I could pull measurments off of it. I have a model of a 1950 chevy 3100, just like my real truck and I was wondering I could pull measurement off of the frame. Let me know what you think.
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I am in the process of doing this as we speak!! Tore into my '53 5-window last month. It is stripped to the frame now. I have already extended the frame 1' and plan on cutting the bed 1' for room to make the 2' extended cab. I plan on using two door skins to extend the roof and extra doors to extend the sides. Only need the top square parts of the window frames of two more doors to finish off the filler doors. No need to split the whole door. Door skins are nearly the same shape as the roof sheet metal and a lot easier to manipulate than 2 cabs! Also, two more doors are cheaper than a whole 'nother cab and supplies the window frame corners and sheet metal. The floor will be extended with bent sheet metal - nothing sacred there. I am mounting the 235 to a 200R4 overdrive now but when that is done, the cab goes on the frame and I start cutting sheet metal! I'll take pictures as I go. I'm staying away from the 4 door concept. One, I don't particularly like the look and second, there needs to be some engineering done from the safety standpoint that I am too old and tired to do it!
I saw a 1 ton 4WD version of this truck and it was awesome. As with everything, if it is done right it looks right if not . . . . . |
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Please take lots of pictures, for this my just save me as well as other lots of trouble. I would greatly appreciate it!
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I have a model graveyard from all the mental projects I dream up. It cost very little and if it doesn't work, they are fun to burn! I find that the measuements are close enuf to get a good gut feeling on if things will fit.
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Almost forgot! The newest project at the shop is a 65 Ford pick up. It is on a big late model Chevy frame (Caprice or wagon or something) To amke it all work, we need to make up 8" or cut the frame. The owner doesn't want the frame cut so, we are doing this. We are stretching the cab IN THE DOORS 8"! He has a donor cab and so far it is coming along well. It will look stack at first, but a second glance, hold your tickets! We cut the doors first and this weekend we will get the basic cab tacked to fit.
There IS more than one way to fk a goat! |
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I'm in the process of building a 35 extended cab dually
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fenderfat,
what kind of frame are you using in the pic? It kinda looks like a 80's model full size chevy frame. If it is, what kind of mods to the frame did you have to do to get the body to bolt up. I have an 86 chevy frame that I intend to put my 50 chevy 1/2 body on. It all looks like it will line up, except behind the engine, where the frames drops down. I was gonna build up the dip in the frame with some metal. That's what it looks you did. Thank you! |
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Yes it is on a gm 80's one ton dually frme. The section under the cab is the original 35 section welded onto the gm frme thus eliminating the dip and also providing direct bolt up for the 35 cab and front end. And yes that is a bumper car sitting on the back. It's an old steel Dodgem that I'm building. I put a 1940 Ford grill into it.
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[ August 28, 2002: Message edited by: fenderfat ]</p> |
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fenderfat,
After you get the truck put together, will the new model frame be visible. It looks kinda big. I had thought of doing that on my truck. |
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Well done! After looking at it, it seems that you could trim off the late model dip on the bottom, horizontally back from the level just below the shock and not lose any strength. Is there anything in the new frame rails that needs to be there?
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