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Old 04-19-2006, 09:35 PM
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Taurus SHO engine issue... just one thing after another.

Well wouldn't ya know, the clutch is now starting to act as it should. My brother says no issues... except until last week.

He loses a piston rod!!! It amazingly still runs and drives. Of course he's not driving it but it can if it needs to.

What doesn't rub my belly right is why didn't the rod throw a hole in the wall or why there is no other serious "apparent" damage. Especially after continous engine use (still running). It makes me wonder what it is for sure. My brother being the Ford Racing "fanatic" that he is won't even let me work on his car... knowing that I won't ask for anything in return. I had a chance to get a set of piston arms and heads for $50 but he says he'll just throw in a used tranny into his "other car."

Let me describe the sound to yall. Its like hearing the pegs on a roulette wheel but a lot louder and at engine idle speed. Ya know? Well even if ya don't, thats my best shot right there.

My thought is, could it be a very bad valve lash? Hopefully? I know its not a good chance but I'm hoping to fix this up for him as a surprise because he's got the "swag" to wear (Ford Racing hat, shirt, keychain...) but now his Ford is on the wheel chair of death.

Please help me out, I know these Yamahas are hard to deal with because of costly and obsolete-ness but he looks cool in that car because it has presence and its got quality... plus not to mention its smokes ricers with a well balanced engine.

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Old 04-19-2006, 10:51 PM
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First thing to do is a compression test , see what cylinder the trouble is in.

Steve
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:31 AM
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Thats a good idea. Now can you tell me how to use a compression test and where I can buy one for cheapest price? I've never done a compression test before... my father has/had the tool but has never shown me or done it.
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:18 AM
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Most part stores will sell a cheap compression tester.

The most accurate way to do the test is........ Remove all spark plugs, screw in comp tester in place of spark plug, hold throttle wide open (sorry forgot to say disable the ignition system, you don't want spark at this point) and crank engine over for aprox 10 seconds, and write down your compression pressure. Continue until you have all six cylinders done.

You should have all number readings no more than 10% difference.

If you have a broken connecting rod, you should get a 0 psi reading on that cylinder.

Keep asking questions we can get you through this. Keep in mind this is not a good engine to lean how to rebuild for the first time.

Steve
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Old 04-20-2006, 10:14 PM
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Hi ! it spun a rod bearing. youll need a new set of bearings, Clevite CB 1435P (Napa, $7.99 each), a connecting rod, and either purchase a reground crank or have your crank ground at a shop. oh, and dont forget your oil pan gasket set OS30636R. while i dont have an extra crankshaft any more, i do have rods if you need one.

these motors RARELY throw a rod.

a bad timing belt tensioner can often be mistaken for a rod knock. when a tensioner is bad, youll hear a knock only at certain RPMs. when rod bearings are bad, they knock no matter the RPM, though the sound usually smoothes out at higher RPMs.

rod bearings are recommended to be changed on the Yamaha motor every 100K miles. though this recommendation is not by Ford or Yamaha, its by the thousands of SHOwners who like to take care of their cars.

another rare failure for the SHO is a blown head gasket.

any questions ?

Dale
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:24 AM
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If you're goign to replace a rod bearing take the motor out and rebuild it. Even if you get a new crank and bearings you still have to contend with putting a new crank in on old main bearings or trying to put a new crank in on journals that aren't align-honed. Futhermore, a spun bearing generally throws crap all over the inside of your crank-case.

K
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killerformula
If you're goign to replace a rod bearing take the motor out and rebuild it. Even if you get a new crank and bearings you still have to contend with putting a new crank in on old main bearings or trying to put a new crank in on journals that aren't align-honed. Futhermore, a spun bearing generally throws crap all over the inside of your crank-case.

K

ive personally seen main bearings with 300K miles on them and they showed virtually no wear. some have replaced the mains but wished they hadnt later, because the originals were still in tolerance. a rebuild isnt very cheap either. gasket set alone is well over $500.

replace the rod bearings, crank, and rod, and youll be set for a long time. these motors can handle the abuse theyre meant to be given, but only if properly maintained.

having owned my SHO for 4 years and beating on it every day(7K RPM shifts and extended high RPM cruising), i have never had an engine issue of any kind.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMag
ive personally seen main bearings with 300K miles on them and they showed virtually no wear. some have replaced the mains but wished they hadnt later, because the originals were still in tolerance. a rebuild isnt very cheap either. gasket set alone is well over $500.

replace the rod bearings, crank, and rod, and youll be set for a long time. these motors can handle the abuse theyre meant to be given, but only if properly maintained.

having owned my SHO for 4 years and beating on it every day(7K RPM shifts and extended high RPM cruising), i have never had an engine issue of any kind.

Still, even if the main bearings dont have much wear on them they still have broken into the pattern of the old crank. Now you are going to put a fresh ground new crank up against old main bearings? If this motor ate a rod bearing there's going to be trash all through the other bearings and more than likely they're going to need to be replaced. I guess we can agree to disagree, but I hate doing things twice. A full rebuild might cost 500 to 700 bucks, but doing the crank twice will cost you more!

K
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Old 04-21-2006, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killerformula
Still, even if the main bearings dont have much wear on them they still have broken into the pattern of the old crank. Now you are going to put a fresh ground new crank up against old main bearings? If this motor ate a rod bearing there's going to be trash all through the other bearings and more than likely they're going to need to be replaced. I guess we can agree to disagree, but I hate doing things twice. A full rebuild might cost 500 to 700 bucks, but doing the crank twice will cost you more!

K
a full rebuild will cost you well over $1000 just for stock replacement parts. my local parts store can sell me a rebuilt SHO motor for the low low price of $4k.

but youre right, ive done many rod bearing jobs on SHOs and i dont know what im talking about.
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Old 04-21-2006, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHMag
but youre right, ive done many rod bearing jobs on SHOs and i dont know what im talking about.
Why so bitter?

I agree with Killer, why would you go through the trouble of pulling a SHO engine and open it up to replace one rod and rod bearing. Even if the others are in good shape, they still should be replaced.

Lets not forget here, we still don't know what the problem is with this engine. I don't care how many engines whoever has built I nor you can diagnose a bad rod or rod bearing with the info we have in these post. Yes these engines have problems, but not everything is the same from car to car (problem wise that is).

DHMag, nobody is saying you don't have experience with these engines, please don't get upset. We are just trying to help someone out.

Steve
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