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Old 02-15-2005, 11:47 PM
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TCI Stall Converter - Blown SB

I got a recommendation from TCI for my converter in an 8-71 blown 383, 31" tires, 18.5 wide, 4:11 with a T-400. here's his quote:

Quote:
I recommend using our ultimate streetfighter converter, part number 241003. This is a steel stator converter that should give you a flash stall around 4200-4500 rpms. Thanks.
I questioned that high a stall and he said:

Quote:
This is a 10'' converter so it will be very efficient at low rpms. With that blown motor, it works excellent because you are not making ''real'' power until you are under full boost. So what that means is, that this converter will work very efficient at low rpms and won't give you that loose sloppy ''race'' converter feel.
Now, we don't have the freeways the lower 48 has and I just can't believe a 4200-4500 converter is going to do me any favors for a pro streeter. I'll make an occasional pass in the car but that's not what I built it for.

What do you guys think? I'll get several more opinions before I buy, just running this through you folks.

Thanks, Larry

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Old 02-16-2005, 01:57 AM
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I have a 383,2Liter Whipple charger,inter cooler,400-T etc., close to your set up and I'm running a TCI 2300 or 2400 stall with no problems. How high of a cam are you running? A cam can be a big factor along with gears etc.
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Old 02-16-2005, 03:12 PM
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I'm running a Lunati solid roller #50139 with 282/290 deg, .532 and 112 deg sep.

All of my past projects have been 4 speeds, so I'm not too familiar with stall characteristics, though I've read a fair amount of literature that's available. I'm looking to hear from some real people with real experience.

Thanks
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:11 AM
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I think the stall speed given is WAY too high. I calculated your drvetrain RPM at 2700 RPM at 60 MPH, given the gear ratio and tire size. Factor in about 5% for converter slip (if it is efficient) an d you get 2835 RPM. Depending on the cam in your motor, I think an 11" converter would suit you better. An 11" should give you the stall speed you need at full throttle, yet keep you efficient at around town driving.
Good Luck
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Old 02-18-2005, 10:47 AM
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GOOD GRIEF!!! That is way too much stall. With a blown engine you will be making power/torque from idle on up, you don't need a bunch of stall. I run a 3500 stall with my blown small block and that is plenty. If you went with the recommendation that TCI gave you, your car will be a gas guzzling, nightmare to drive on the street. Your tranny would take a beating (from the heat) as well. I am thinking he suggested that thinking either it was a race car or he doesn't understand roots blowers. With a turbo car I could see that suggestion but, it is WAY off for a roots style engine. You could even get buy with 2800-3000 RPM stall if you want.

Royce
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Old 09-04-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaroman7d
GOOD GRIEF!!! That is way too much stall. With a blown engine you will be making power/torque from idle on up, you don't need a bunch of stall. I run a 3500 stall with my blown small block and that is plenty. If you went with the recommendation that TCI gave you, your car will be a gas guzzling, nightmare to drive on the street. Your tranny would take a beating (from the heat) as well. I am thinking he suggested that thinking either it was a race car or he doesn't understand roots blowers. With a turbo car I could see that suggestion but, it is WAY off for a roots style engine. You could even get buy with 2800-3000 RPM stall if you want.

Royce
When you are saying a nightmare to drive on the street - would you please describe that in detail for someone who doesn't understand your statement? Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtyninemercury
When you are saying a nightmare to drive on the street - would you please describe that in detail for someone who doesn't understand your statement? Thanks.
Anyone had a TC that was a nightmare to drive on the street? Would you post why? Thanks.
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:57 AM
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It used to be that performance and a lockup TC was never used in the same sentence. Nowadays it's way different.

If you don't have the luxury of an overdrive trans and a lockup converter, then getting a 'rambunctious' engine to be streetable with an auto-trans sometimes means that stall speed has to go up. A looser converter.

The nightmare can be on each end of the spectrum- to tight and it won't even idle in gear, and too loose- a constant rev as it bumps through the gears, all the while generating HUGE amounts of heat for the trans cooler to dissipate. BUT- it idles in gear.

I've seen TC's with identical numbers feel slightly looser or tighter in the same application.

If you get a converter that's spot on the first time, then you are lucky OR your communication to the TC mfr was the way it needed to be.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:41 AM
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I have a T bucket that has a blown 350. A pretty radical engine. I have 31" tires and a 4.10 dana. I run a 3500 converter. It seems just right to me. I bought mine from RedNeck on ebay, they are in Texas.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-TH...mZ160250127375

Last edited by RPM; 09-07-2008 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM
I have a T bucket that has a blown 350. A pretty radical engine. I have 31" tires and a 4.10 dana. I run a 3500 converter. It seems just right to me. I bought mine from RedNeck on ebay, they are in Texas.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-TH...mZ160250127375
No mushy pedal, huh? Whatever the heck that means?
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:42 PM
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Stall speed is the max rpm that you can get with the brakes on, trans in gear, and reving the engine. On a high horsepower unit, that may be next to impossible to measure, so another defanition is the rpm where the impeller and turbine are rotating at the same speed. Too loose of a converter will rev way out upon initial acceleration, and then your cruising rpm will be much lower than the stall speed, and the shear loads on the fluid in the converter will generate an ENORMOUS amount of heat. Stop and go driving would be a PITA due to the large amount of throttle needed to get moving, and trans services would need to be done weekly if you put any kind of miles on. Too low of a stall, and the thing will be a dog off the line, and take forever to build rpm as the enging is lugging out of it's power range. Many things are needed to determine stall, like camshaft, compression, vehicle weight, blown or NA, ect. If you don't have/give all the correct info, you will likely get the wrong converter.
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