Originally posted by johnsongrass1
His must be tuned better than yours. A lot better than yours.
I got my valves set correctly. The carb is a brand new 1850s 600 vacuum secondary carb. I bought it, and they said bolt it on, set the floats and go. The floats ended up being set correctly. The timing is set at 10 degrees (it has a vacuum advance distributor). It has a stock type distributor in it. When I first put the distributor in, and ran the motor, it would not go. After removing the cap, and rotor, the counter weights were stacked on top of each other. After separating them it decided to run. What would cause that? Do I need a new distributor, if I do, what kind at a reasonable price.
Here are the specs on what that carb has in it. Primary metering jet is 66, secondary metering jet is 9 plate*, pump discharge nozzle is 0.025, primary power valve is 65, and secondary diaphram spring is plain silver. I don't know what any of this means, but if any of you know what might could be changed to help it, please let me know.
Also, right now it has about 8" diameter, by 1.5" tall air fliter(temporary) on it, 1 1/4" headers with glass packs, stock plug wires, ac 45ts(i think) plugs, and Holley Contender dual plane intake. What filter, exhaust, plugs, wires, and intake change would benefit me more in this 1972 truck. I don't know what that intake is good for, or the equal to as far as an Elderbrock goes. Would K&N filter, 1 1/2"Hooker exhaust, ACCEL wires, ??? plugs help any.
What would a shift kit do for the 350 tranny. This is a daily driver/still want it to run a little better truck.
After saying all of this, this truck is running real smooth, and nice right now. I know after all, this is a big truck, just want to help it all I can.
Originally posted by killerformula
is yours a 4x4?
wait, does he have a 700 R4? That would help him out quite a bit-
It's not a 4x4, and I don't know what his tranny is, but he did say he had a shift kit.
I think I wish I would have stroke this engine. What would a 350 block bored .060 over with a 400 crank be? How much more money would it have cost me as far as the block work goes. The 350 rotating assembly I got out of JR Motorsports went from $599 to $899 for the 383 set.