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Old 11-06-2011, 05:32 AM
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TH-400 Valve BOdy Mods

Hi all,

I have a TH400 that I rebuilt at the beginning of the year and in addition, did all of the mods within the attached (except for the "dual feed"). It seems to operate normally in drive, however, the 1-2 shift is much softer that I thought it would be. Actually seems softer than a basic shift kit.

Also using ratchet shift mode starting in first, I can hold first indefinately (as the mod created), however when I ratchet to second nothing happens and it stays in first. If I ratchet again, it goes into 3rd. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

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Old 11-06-2011, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fixit
Hi all,

I have a TH400 that I rebuilt at the beginning of the year and in addition, did all of the mods within the attached (except for the "dual feed"). It seems to operate normally in drive, however, the 1-2 shift is much softer that I thought it would be. Actually seems softer than a basic shift kit.

Also using ratchet shift mode starting in first, I can hold first indefinately (as the mod created), however when I ratchet to second nothing happens and it stays in first. If I ratchet again, it goes into 3rd. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Oops, here is the attachment: http://www.jakesperformance.com/TH400_Rebuild_Tech.html
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:02 AM
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So Auto shifts in D are fine but soft.
No Manual 1st-2nd upshift.
What happens if you do a Manual 3rd-2nd downshift?

Do you have a TC/TorqueConverter with a high Stall rating?
This can soften Shifts quite a bit, depending on Stall rating. They can be firmed up by enlarging Spacer/Separator Plate Orifices & Modifying Accumulators.
More TH400 Info >> http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_Rebuild_tech courtesy Jake, Crosley & Cobalt.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
So Auto shifts in D are fine but soft.
No Manual 1st-2nd upshift.
What happens if you do a Manual 3rd-2nd downshift?

Do you have a TC/TorqueConverter with a high Stall rating?
This can soften Shifts quite a bit, depending on Stall rating. They can be firmed up by enlarging Spacer/Separator Plate Orifices & Modifying Accumulators.
More TH400 Info >> http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_Rebuild_tech courtesy Jake, Crosley & Cobalt.
Yes, auto shifts in drive seem fine, however, unless I am crazy, it seems that it is shifing from 1st to 3rd. No manual 1st to 2nd. 3rd to 2nd downshift and 2nd to first downshift are perfect.

TC is a 3000 - 3400 rated TCI Street Fighter. As I had mentioned, all of the mods including the increasing of the separater plate orafices was accomplished.

Thx..
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fixit
Yes, auto shifts in drive seem fine, however, unless I am crazy, it seems that it is shifing from 1st to 3rd. No manual 1st to 2nd. 3rd to 2nd downshift and 2nd to first downshift are perfect.

TC is a 3000 - 3400 rated TCI Street Fighter. As I had mentioned, all of the mods including the increasing of the separater plate orafices was accomplished.

Thx..

Not sure if that would be a Manual Detent Valve problem or Internal Linkage problem.
Crosley or Jake may know what's up.

With the high Stall TC, you will need to increase the Orifice sizes more than normal. Blocking the Accumulator may be needed as well.
TCI brand TCs are known to be very loose, more slippage than normal unless the TC was built especially for you Combo, "Custom Built".
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
Not sure if that would be a Manual Detent Valve problem or Internal Linkage problem.
Crosley or Jake may know what's up.

With the high Stall TC, you will need to increase the Orifice sizes more than normal. Blocking the Accumulator may be needed as well.
TCI brand TCs are known to be very loose, more slippage than normal unless the TC was built especially for you Combo, "Custom Built".
Thanks for the suggestions. I will hope to get some direction/suggested parts from those guys.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:25 PM
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How many quarts should the trans hold with a standard pan including a dry TC? I have an aftermarket plastic dip and I am not sure if it is accurate?

I have 9 in it now..

Thanks
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:50 PM
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You need more..like 5 more quarts..your trans should hold a total of 14 quarts to be full
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:52 PM
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Low fluuid level could also explain your shift problem....how much have you driven it with only 9 quarts? Hopefully you didn't burn anything up...smell your fluid and make sure its still pink looking.
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80PontiacWagon
Low fluuid level could also explain your shift problem....how much have you driven it with only 9 quarts? Hopefully you didn't burn anything up...smell your fluid and make sure its still pink looking.
Have driven about 150 miles and the fluid is perfect in color and smell. In reading a lot of info earlier today about the fluid capacity, it seems that 10 quarts is about average depending on the pan and converter sizes. My pan is a stock size and the converter is 10" so I think I am pretty much there.

Thanks..
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:27 PM
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9-qts. looks correct >> http://www.tciauto.com/tc/fluid-capacity
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSedan64
Not sure if that would be a Manual Detent Valve problem or Internal Linkage problem.
Crosley or Jake may know what's up.

With the high Stall TC, you will need to increase the Orifice sizes more than normal. Blocking the Accumulator may be needed as well.
TCI brand TCs are known to be very loose, more slippage than normal unless the TC was built especially for you Combo, "Custom Built".
As per the suggestion of Jake (thanks again), I checked the linkage and fluid carefully and those things are fine. The next suggestion was to check the line pressure so per the suggestion of SSedan64, I bought a gauge set up and below are the results.

P = 100
R = 155-165
N = 100
D = 105
2 = 145-150
1 = 145-150

Having made the modifications as mentioned in my original post which came from the Jake's Performance Website, I am hoping that Jake, Crosley or any knowledgable person can help me to understand what I could/should do next with these test results in order to resolve the issue(s)since I still have no manual 1-2 shift and the auto shifting seems very soft too.

Thank you,

Mr. Fixit
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:53 AM
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What method did you use to plug the small hole in the valve body casting per the shift mods? Thread and install a short bolt or pound in a copper coated b - b?

If done improperly, that can bind up the valve for 1 - 2 shift.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crosley
What method did you use to plug the small hole in the valve body casting per the shift mods? Thread and install a short bolt or pound in a copper coated b - b?

If done improperly, that can bind up the valve for 1 - 2 shift.
I drilled, tapped and installed a small set screw with a little red locktite on it. Do the pressures that I referenced seem acceptable? Thanks..
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fixit
I drilled, tapped and installed a small set screw with a little red locktite on it. Do the pressures that I referenced seem acceptable? Thanks..

the pressures are fine for a good operating street unit.

the two mods to the 1-2 shift valve area are simple. Sounds like the hole was plugged well. The land was ground on the shift valve per instructions?

Did you perform any mods to the smaller accumilator valve on the other end of the valve body from the 1-2 shift valve bore?

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