[Mr. Horsepower]

Does anyone have any info on converting to full manual? Other than Gov. locked,(full Gov.press. to shift valves) Manual Low disable? Maybe a shorter hydraulic path by disabling Shift Valves(what has to be done to them for proper operation of engine braking in all gears?) If removeing Vacuume Modulator and a plug is installed with Modulator Valve pushed all the way in, what needs to be done to the Reverse Boost circuit to avoid damaging high pressure? What about the Detent Valve? Should it be fixed to full detent?

[Frisco]

Buy a B&M Transpak and install it. Easy installation and gives you what you want.

[Mr. Horsepower]

Actually I would rather creat it myself as a number of other modifications during rebuilds.

[Crosley]

I doubt that you have the technical knowledge to creat it yourself, I could be wrong

The T-350 needs a stout, odd shaped conical shaped little spring in the 1-2 shift valve stack up to allow full manual control. No spring and the the tranny will lock up in manual low gear and the vehicle will not move.

Most of the full manual conversion kits for a OEM valve body loop the oil feed to the governor or as TransGo does it they provide wire springs to open the weights up so the tranny stays "up shifted" full time for full manual operation.

Plugging the gov feed holes and looping the oil is easy, but i goes back to the splitter spring for the 1-2 valve.

[taffy]

Hi Crosley, do you have a pic of the spring you described and where it goes,or measurements of one? Thanks,Taffy.

[Mr. Horsepower]

Trust me, I have the knowledge as I have succesfully done this before. Everything was removed and replaced with sleeves. The only item was the manual shift valve and the pressure regulator. This valve body performed EXTREMELY well. Super positive shifts and engagement was instant. Further mods to the trans blew a hole in the case at the low/reverse clutch area next to the vacuume modulator. (It happened on a cold morning when I shifted into reverse with no warmup.)I later found it was due to the fact that the modulator valve was immobilized with a solid plug preventing pressure fluctuations. But what I didn't know was with the solid plug installed, the boost valve in the pressure regulator MUST be modified or dissabled. So, after that I abandoned further development, but did not save any notes up to the failure. So now I am trying to retrace my steps and take notes of every detail this time.

[Crosley]

[quote]Originally posted by Mr. Horsepower:
<strong>Trust me, I have the knowledge as I have succesfully done this before.

Further mods to the trans blew a hole in the case at the low/reverse clutch area next to the vacuume modulator. </strong><hr></blockquote>

========== you contradict yourself in your own words. Blowing the case apart is not succesful.

This is also an indication that you may not have been checking main line pressures and finding corrections for high main line pressures. High pressures and flying broken parts can kill

You will need to block the boost circuit and run main line pressure off the PR spring only. I would build an adjustable setup. An assembly with a threaded bolt & nut works well. Tighten up the spring for more pressure, loosen for less. A simple task that I am sure you will figure out.

Don't foget to provide exhaust ports where needed to avoid hydraulically locking the PR valve and blowing up more parts.

Or you can use the modualtor valve and aluminum plug as a line bias valve for reverse. Machine the plug to accept a spring and threaded bolt assembly. then you can dial in the pressure there with out changing the main boost circuits. Reverse will still be higher but not too high to break parts

As mentioned, I would remove the gov from the system to save power and provide a shorter pathway for the oil to travel

I'd advise taking notes and keeping a couple of copies around. Should be an easy task for a student like yourself.

I have the knowledge too, but have never blown a case apart from excessive pressure in 28 years in the business. good luck

[Mr. Horsepower]

Well... it was successfull until I immobilized the modulator valve, Thats when a 1/4" hole popped in the case. I was checking pressures, but failed to check reverse. (DOH!) I do consider safty first. Crosley, you have a good idea for making mainline pressure adjustable. Could'nt the boost valve be elliminated as well? Thanks for the expert advice.