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Old 01-28-2011, 06:58 AM
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TH350 tranny check balls

what check balls do i leave out for a firmer shift

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Old 01-28-2011, 03:32 PM
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on a performance build i leave all of them out if i built it. does the trans have a hardened sprag race?
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:48 PM
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In a basic street automatic shift trans....the check ball near the modulator valve needs to be installed or the trans will have low main line pressure
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:22 PM
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no,it is stoke and i only have a small came.i just want it to shift a little firmer.
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:17 AM
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why dont put a b&m 30262 shift kit it works well in my th350 and give it to me hard shifts under acceleration
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:55 AM
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Because i am building the tranny myself and would rather not have the conversion kit.Have had bad luck with them in the past.By building a duel feed tranny i can get a good firm shift and increase the torque capacity of it.Just cant remember what check balls to leave out.Was hoping not to by the book.Money kind of tight now days.
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie filyaw
Because i am building the tranny myself and would rather not have the conversion kit.Have had bad luck with them in the past.By building a duel feed tranny i can get a good firm shift and increase the torque capacity of it.Just cant remember what check balls to leave out.Was hoping not to by the book.Money kind of tight now days.
Check out THIS, by Jakeshoe.
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:46 AM
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that is what i have been going by,while it has very good info it does not mention check ball or tell me how to stop 2-3 acc flow in the valve body.Any help would be nice
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:35 AM
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may be you can look if you can put a ball in one of the sides of the separator shim according to the flow of the oil to block it. may be it is possible or tack weld the shim and then polish it just remember to do it carefully
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie filyaw
that is what i have been going by,while it has very good info it does not mention check ball or tell me how to stop 2-3 acc flow in the valve body.Any help would be nice
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/th35...ch-145361.html Post #4, and Post #6. I do not believe the check balls have anything to do w/this specifically- if the dual feed is done internally. However shift firmness can be increased by removing some of them, as well as opening some holes in the separator plate. See Post #3 of this thread- you have to keep the check ball nearest to the modulator. Others can be removed.

Otherwise, use any of the shift kits, like B&M, TCI, Trans-Go. They dual feed when you install them, follow their instructions for check ball removal, etc.

Jakeshoe also says HERE:

"Some of the kits have you drill the feed holes way too big IMO and this can (WILL) cause intermediate sprag failure.

Keep the feed holes no larger than about .135" (I prefer .125" on the 2nd feed) and keep the 1-2 accumulator function active on a TH350 it will not break parts."
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:14 PM
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Thank you very much.I really do appreciate all the help and info i get from this forum.Thanks guys
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodie filyaw
Thank you very much.I really do appreciate all the help and info i get from this forum.Thanks guys
I'd be interested to hear if you find out anything to the contrary, and also how you make out w/whatever way you decide to do the dual feed.

Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:21 PM
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you will like the way jakeshoe does his. I finished mine up this fall with the internal dual feeding and only enlarged the separator holes to .125". shifts are firm and positive not harsh like the B&M kit. My last 2 trans that had B&M kits installed didn't last. It could be unrelated though.
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:52 PM
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Thanks for the insight.I to think this is what i an looking for.Did you leave out any check balls,I am leaving out 3.
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