I have a 98 chevy 1500 that I bought for my wife that is in really good shape except it was a work truck and apparently someone decided to walk on the roof of the cab. So I decided to get out my ol hammer and dolly set to try and straighten it out some, but found out it is a double wall roof system which is going to do me no good. So I went driving around to a few very reputable body shops today to see if I could get them to pull the dents out for me and I would finish the body work myself. Everyone is telling me that I should replace the panel with a new one. Around $1,000 to do it, being the tight *ss I am I still want to try and repair it myself. My question is if I buy one of those uni-spotter stud welders, will that get me pulled out to a reasonable amount and the some heat shrinking to eliminate oil canning and some Evercoat Z-grip to smooth things out? I can get a uni-spotter 4500 for $158.00 and the rest would be my labor.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Heres what it looks like...

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Make you a dent puller.With a nut on the end,Then weld you some bolt's on the roof,And screw the dent puller on to the bolt's,Then go to pulling.

You are a genious! I never thought of that, my neighbor has a TIG welder that I could use. TIG is not to hot for sheet metal is it?

It would be easier to re-skin the thing the try to straighten it. Roof panels are very flimsy and hard to get straight on those. Pull the glass and re-skin it and you will be more satisfied with the results.

Use a stud welder.

If he has one.Most people have a welder and not a stud welder.

All of the replies, I agree with. Even the one about the skin being a PITA thin thing. More or less pick a choice and give it a go.

panel should be around $150 or so and pull the glass, easy to do but the next best is a stud gun if you know anybody that has one or the least way will be to drill 1/8 hole and use pull rods instead of a knocker as it will make the panel too high and you wont be able to dolly it out, pull rods you can take your time, hammer as you go but you will still have a mess of 1/8 holes to deal with, weld up or fill its your choice but if the truck is worth it put a panel in

Roofs are an easy find at the salvage yards and they usually let them go really cheap because they don't sell well with the bodyshops. And if you can find a yard that will let you cut the top yourself I bet you could find a donor roof for $75ish. Drilling the spotwelds and seperating the skin is time consuming but if you've got more time than money it will work just fine. Panel adhesive for installation is also an option. Or buy a new skin.

Plunger might take some of it out. What about pulling the light stuffing in an inner tube and inflating it? Maybe use some of the great stuff expanding foam,(but it will be a mess if it dont work)
Shane

That skin is WAY beyond saving, from a purely practical standpoint. Yeah, it COULD be done, but for less time, less money and aggravation, go to a pick your part yard, whack the roof off one with a sawzall, get a spotweld cutter and take it apart once you get it home. Or, buy a new panel and save a days worth of labor. You'll end up with a lumpy roof with a gallon of filler, and it'll still look like somebody walked on it if you try to 'fix' it by pulling it. It's stretched all out of whack.

Brian

I'd say get the tool and give it a go..
At least you'll have a new tool and something to practice/learn on at your own pace..
That is some good metal there to heat and shink and experiment with.. Remember to check the headliner first for fire hazard

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/den...light=Fooseball

If you're going to try and save it I think I would pull the third brake light and use a pick/pry bar and spoon to work the low area up. And a shrinking disc would also be helpfull for eliminating the stretch. Another option if it has a headliner is to drill access holes through the inner roof panel. A unispotter would be my last resort on a roof.

Thanks for all the great replys. I have very little body work experience and there is no way I would attempt replacing the panel myself. But I have been reading a lot about these stud welders on different websites and thought I would tackle something like that. Like Milo said it would give me something to practice with so when I'm ready to start restoring my 70 Mustang I would have some knowledge on pulling dents.

I only paid $2000 for the pickup and I really can't justify in my mind paying a body shop another $1000 to replace a $150 panel. The truck looks relatively decent all around except for the roof.

Heres a shot of her..

The truck has not been lowered, so you should only be able to see the roof if you are over 6' tall.

I had my 79 Chev a few years before I realized GM did not paint the entire roof.

Do what I would do-----If I can't see it while standing next to it or driving it, it's not there.