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Old 10-07-2008, 08:32 PM
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Is there an easy way to strip paint from aluminum?

Underneath a bit of paint is a good aluminum intake. Is there a chemical stripper made for aluminum parts that I can do myself? I don't think grinding, steel wool, wire brushes, or scotch bright pads will be affective in the tight spots.

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Old 10-07-2008, 08:44 PM
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I've used a product from Mar-Hyde called "Aircraft Coating Remover" and it turns the paint into jelly. I got it from a NAPA auto body supply.

It states right on the front of the can that it is intended for aluminum and other metals.

It's toxic, messy and stinky but very effective.

Edit - I should mention that it smells and acts a lot like Poly Strippa - just a concentrated version. Shouldn't have to travel far to find that, you may even have some in the garage.

Last edited by Rustydawg; 10-07-2008 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:33 PM
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Oven cleaner, not the non-toxic stuff.

You need the toxic stuff.

Leave overnight in a doubled up garbage bag and pressure wash clean the next day.

Use the whole can. Depending on how thick the paint is, might have to do it twice.
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:01 PM
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I'll double the Mar-Hyde recommendation. Just don't get it on your skin

Never tried the oven cleaner, but I hear it works as well. Aircraft remover takes 15 minutes, though. Slather it on with a paint brush or something and then hose it off after a couple beers.
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Old 10-08-2008, 06:36 AM
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I would take it to someone with a "glass bead blaster" ...Chemicals will make the aluminum look dark and or give it spots.
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Old 10-08-2008, 07:38 AM
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I used Keen Strip Paint Remover in Spray can before on Intake manifold and it didnt make it trun black or anything. You can get it at Walmart. Plus the spray can you won't get any on your skin.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:30 AM
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I would glass bead/ media blast. Oven cleaner is NOT intended for aluminum, read the can.... it is good for stripping cheapo paint jobs in engine compartments though, I've used it many a time.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Mopar Guy
Oven cleaner is NOT intended for aluminum, read the can.... it is good for stripping cheapo paint jobs in engine compartments though, I've used it many a time.
Oven cleaner removes the anodizing on aluminum, so that would be a good first step if your going to polish it. Done it a bunch of times with bicycle parts.

http://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:17 PM
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I've had good luck with carb cleaner.
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Old 10-08-2008, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Mopar Guy
I would glass bead/ media blast. Oven cleaner is NOT intended for aluminum, read the can.... it is good for stripping cheapo paint jobs in engine compartments though, I've used it many a time.
I'll add to this by saying that some oven cleaners include lye in the formula, this will do more than remove the paint from aluminum, it's a good bet it'll actually remove the aluminum from the paint.

Bogie
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendus
Oven cleaner removes the anodizing on aluminum, so that would be a good first step if your going to polish it. Done it a bunch of times with bicycle parts.

http://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
I think you would be amazed how some oven cleaners can eat aluminum.
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Old 10-09-2008, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Mopar Guy
I think you would be amazed how some oven cleaners can eat aluminum.
Ok, how about using Red Devil Lye and water?
It's a rhetorical question, the oven cleaner works just fine, as I said I've used it before. It's just a matter of how long the aluminum is exposed to the caustic solution.

link:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=19274

another link:
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

or you could go with this method:

Quote:
1. Caswell Anodize & Chrome Stripper
2. 12 volt manual battery charger
3. Stainless steel cathode (I used a 3 x 5 piece of 1/8 thick 316 s/s)
4. 2 x 5 gal pail (or something large enough to submerge the part in)
5. Nitric Acid
6. Stainless steel pot (large enough to submerge part)
7. Tap water
8. SAFETY GEAR (goggles or shield, rubber gloves, apron, ect...)

Proceedure Utilized

1. Mix the Caswell Anodize & Chrome stripper in one of the 5 gal pails (room temp).
2. Fill the other 5 gal pail with water (for rinsing).
3. Connect the negative lead of the battery charger to the stainless steel cathode and suspend the cathode in the stripping solution.
4. Connect the the positive side of the battery charger to the chrome plated part which is to be stripped and suspend the part in the stripper solution (with the battery charger off).
5. Making sure there is no contact between the cathode and the part to be stripped, turn the battery charger on (I used the 2 amps setting to strip a paintball marker trigger).
6. Bubbles will form in the solution as the chrome is being stripped. Pull the part out from time to time and rinse it in the rinse pail in order to check the progress. (I found it difficult to know when the chrome was completely off so I can not provide an exact duration but I would estimate about 10 minutes).
7. Once the chrome is stripped, the nickle which is left behind must be stripped. Mix a 50% Nitric Acid and water solution into the stainless steel pot. CAUTION : Always mix acid into water, never water into acid. Mix slowly.
8. After rinsing the stripped part in the rinse pail, submerge it into the Nitric Acid solution. It should turn colors (almost black) as the nickle and copper (which is under the nickle) is being stripped off. CAUTION : Do not breathe fumes and strip in a well ventilated area. Dispose of waste accordingly.
9. The nickle and copper are removed when the color fades from black, bronze to dull grey (this is the aluminum etching - I think). Rinse the part and re-polish or treat as desired.
whichever way seems easier to you!

Last edited by Rendus; 10-09-2008 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rendus
Ok, how about using Red Devil Lye and water?
It's a rhetorical question, the oven cleaner works just fine, as I said I've used it before. It's just a matter of how long the aluminum is exposed to the caustic solution.

link:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=19274

another link:
http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

or you could go with this method:

Quote:

1. Caswell Anodize & Chrome Stripper
2. 12 volt manual battery charger
3. Stainless steel cathode (I used a 3 x 5 piece of 1/8 thick 316 s/s)
4. 2 x 5 gal pail (or something large enough to submerge the part in)
5. Nitric Acid
6. Stainless steel pot (large enough to submerge part)
7. Tap water
8. SAFETY GEAR (goggles or shield, rubber gloves, apron, ect...)

Proceedure Utilized

1. Mix the Caswell Anodize & Chrome stripper in one of the 5 gal pails (room temp).
2. Fill the other 5 gal pail with water (for rinsing).
3. Connect the negative lead of the battery charger to the stainless steel cathode and suspend the cathode in the stripping solution.
4. Connect the the positive side of the battery charger to the chrome plated part which is to be stripped and suspend the part in the stripper solution (with the battery charger off).
5. Making sure there is no contact between the cathode and the part to be stripped, turn the battery charger on (I used the 2 amps setting to strip a paintball marker trigger).
6. Bubbles will form in the solution as the chrome is being stripped. Pull the part out from time to time and rinse it in the rinse pail in order to check the progress. (I found it difficult to know when the chrome was completely off so I can not provide an exact duration but I would estimate about 10 minutes).
7. Once the chrome is stripped, the nickle which is left behind must be stripped. Mix a 50% Nitric Acid and water solution into the stainless steel pot. CAUTION : Always mix acid into water, never water into acid. Mix slowly.
8. After rinsing the stripped part in the rinse pail, submerge it into the Nitric Acid solution. It should turn colors (almost black) as the nickle and copper (which is under the nickle) is being stripped off. CAUTION : Do not breathe fumes and strip in a well ventilated area. Dispose of waste accordingly.
9. The nickle and copper are removed when the color fades from black, bronze to dull grey (this is the aluminum etching - I think). Rinse the part and re-polish or treat as desired.

whichever way seems easier to you!
The glass beader in my garage seems like the easiest, safest, and best way to ME....


That looks like a dinner recipe to me, and I don't cook.
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