Thermostat bypass on Vortec conversion - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 11:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thats what I was afraid of. Do you think if I put on a clutch fan with a shroud it would be sufficient? Although I only have 4 3/4" from the water pump pulley surface to the radiator. I am not sure I can get a fan short enough with the clutch.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 11:12 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 6,925
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 475 Times in 406 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmgarage View Post
Thats what I was afraid of. Do you think if I put on a clutch fan with a shroud it would be sufficient? Although I only have 4 3/4" from the water pump pulley surface to the radiator. I am not sure I can get a fan short enough with the clutch.
I doubt that would work, the problem is one of areas (tube to fin contact and fin to air) If it won't cool with 60-70 mph air flow through the core from the vehicle's motion, it is not likely that any fan that fits the available space can do as well let alone better.

What is the vehicle? I get the feeling we're talking a older design with a vertical flow radiator. These can be a problem where space for the cooling system is concerned. These older machines had trouble keeping the 100 horse power engines of their day cool. Admittedly we have a lot more Rocket Science available, but it still is not easy to provide adaquate cooling within the available space.

Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 11:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It is a 56 Chevy Truck with a new aluminum cross flow rad (I did not put it in) pic attached (I hope)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	56.JPG
Views:	63
Size:	186.3 KB
ID:	67716  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 01:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I should re-phrase that. I installed it as it is now, but the rad came with the truck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 01:44 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 6,925
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 475 Times in 406 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmgarage View Post
I should re-phrase that. I installed it as it is now, but the rad came with the truck.
The surface difference between what you've got and what is needed is 36 percent. That's a lot; there are no tricks to overcome this it's just too big a number for fans and water wetter to overcome. I see the paint is probably custom and the opening in the truck's radiator support frame is probably too small so cutting that frame and touching up the paint is sure to be difficult, but I really don't see much in viable options.

However, over the years I done some tricky things where space in hot rods of the 1920's and 30's just didn't offer sufficient radiator space behind the grill without ruining the lines and or finishes. Some of these include:

- Installing a large as practical oil cooler with a thermostat. A lot of load can be taken off the radiator by cooling the oil. But the oil cooler installation needs to include a by-passing thermostat because you need to get the oil temp up but then maintain it. If it's too low the oil can't eliminate trapped water (a component of blow by) which reduces its and the engine's components life span. This can take 10-15 degrees off the coolant temp.

- Using hidden secondary cooling. Capture the coolant from the radiator before it goes back to the pump and run it through a looping length of 1-1/2 inch copper pipe clamped to the frame. You can have a well equipped plumbing or radiator shop roll a bead on the ends where the hoses will attach. Rubber hose adapters see WYSCO from your browser can adapt the 1-3/4 Chevy pump feed side hose to the 1-5/8ths of the tube/pipe. This adds volume capacity to the coolant and uses the contact point to the frame as a heat sink. This method keeps the thermostat and bypass intact and functional. You can tap a secondary radiator into the bypass but this leads into a remote thermostat housing which gets complicated and not very visually pleasing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 02:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
All very good ideas. My first choice would be to install a larger radiator. However I may be limited with the frontal area of the truck and the surrounding components. I will look closely at this first. Of course I would then need to install a new arrangement with the fan(s) and shroud also. The looping length of tubing may work too. Thanks a lot for the reply!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Vortec head conversion - EGR chevy_c10 Engine 10 03-29-2009 11:20 AM
carb/fuel injected intake to vortec tb conversion plate 383silverado Engine 5 09-09-2007 10:36 AM
Water pump bypass, vortec heads blndweasel Engine 2 06-17-2005 05:10 PM
NEW GMPP VORTEC heads !! terror385 Engine 1 07-11-2004 09:48 AM
Hotrodders Knowledge Cluster: Disc Brake Conversions Jon Suspension - Brakes - Steering 0 08-29-2003 03:34 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.