[Dave E Shank]

I am running a 350 Chevy with a 180 thermostat. Normal running is 144 Degrees on digital gauges. In traffic it quickly moves right on up. At 214 I am washing the street. I am thinking of putting in a 160 degree stat to see if that gives me more range. What are you guys running out there?? Are some running with no stat or using a gutted one as an restrictor plate?? Someone told me taht running too cool a stat can cause condensation inside valve covers an engine?? Dave E Shank davesr@trianglesalesusa.com

[FASTFORD]

its been my experience that the lower temp t-stat will not help.running sans t-stat is not what the motor is designed to run at. and in some cases i agree about the condendsation. it sounds like the classic rod trouble,plenty of airflow at speed, not enough in stop & go in traffic.this means the radiator is usually not at fault,you need a better and or bigger fan. are you running a fan shroud? it helps a LOT! make sure the air flows through the radiator,not beside,below,over top. last, an electric fan may be the solution to your problem,lots of good after market set ups availible. good luck & let us know what did the trick.

[awsum34]

Dave, What kind of car you having this trouble in?
At slow speeds make sure your getting enough air through the radiator. What kind of fan you running?
Like Fastford said. running a shroud will help.

[willys36@aol.com]

Air flow, air flow , air flow! Unless I am not clear you need AIR FLOW! It's always a detective case for every car but you need to figure out how to move more air when the car isn't moving. Shroud, bugger fan, if your car runs a clutch fan, be sure the clutch is ok, auxillary electric fans, etc. Also, check your temperature gauge- you can't run temps lower than the thermostat rating once the engine is warmed up, if the thermo is not broken. Gauge sounds bad from what you have written.

[willys36@aol.com]

Another thought; my car gets to 220F in Bakersfield summers @ a stop sign but I don't worry about boiling. My car has a real problem w/ air flow and I have it as good as I can get it so I live w/ the high temp. My solution is I converted my cooling system to use a 13psi radiator cap. W/ 50% anti-freeze and the high pressure cap, I figure I could go to 240F before I had boiling problems. Engine isn't hurt by 220F as long as there is coolant flowing.

[WoodsEdge]

Dave, don't know what kind of car you drive, but the air flow also has to have a way out. The engine campartment in my 40 Ford was so tight there way no way the hot air could get out. Put loovers in the inner fender wells, cured overheating problem.
Jack

[FASTFORD]

DAVE,i got your message and for some reason i could not reply. my initial thought still seems like the solution to your problem,a bigger/better fan set up.
however,the other posts have good info. you should have a hi-flow thermostat and water pump.good hoses,make sure lower hose does not collapse at high temp.higher rated rad cap and cool air in - hot air OUT! i went through this with my 34 coupe. tried 3 fans, last one was the best. made to pull LOTS of air at LOW rpm`s. my curiosity is running now that i read your message, i would really like to know what cures your problem. good luck and keep in touch.