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Looks to me like it would be correct once you get the front of the one piece gasket ALL the way down into the groove in the timing cover. It doesn't look like it is from here, the amount showing fron the groove should appear even, and the corners should touch the block on both sides. It can take a decent amount of force with your fingers to do this, it is meant to be a tight fit.
![]() Edit: Even when the gasket is right the pan will not sit down totally flat to the rubber, you will JUST be able to start the front two 5/16" bolts, and may have to lean on the pan to compress the gasket a little to get them to start. Last edited by ericnova72; 07-15-2008 at 09:38 PM. Reason: more info |
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Thanks for the input, any other info is appreciated.. I may build a test stand in the next few days, just in case..... I'd rather drop the engine in once and not have to pull it to fix a sealing problem... (especially since now everything is pretty clean and oil free..) thanks again eazy |
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When it comes to pan seals there are only two types- thin and thick, and this is decided by the front lip of the pan. There is only one type of timing cover as far as dimensions are concerned, they are all the same, so don't pay any attention to the seal thickness that came with the cover- the pan makes the decision. If putting a fair amount of hand pressure to it still won't allow you to get the pan bolts started a couple of threads then the pan probably takes a thin seal unless it is too poorly made. Good luck
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What year was the pan designed for? What year was the gasket designed for? What side is your dipstick on?
If you purchased a pre 1980 pan and a post 1980 gasket you will experience this problem. If your dipstick is on the driver side then you definately need a thin gasket. Trying to squish a thick gasket just won't work. You need the right one. |
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thanks for the help.. eazy oh yeah- Eric- I understand that there are two front seal sizes, but the pan seal is thicker than the thin & thick seal that came with the timing cover (if fel pro makes all their 1880 front seals this way- there might as well be 3 sizes... Pictures of that later.. |
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by looking at your pictures, you have the right gasket. i find it a lot easier to install studs on the 4 corners of the block. in all the years i have been doing this, very few engines needed the thin gasket. good luck.
sam-missle |
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eazy |
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The fel pro gasket that you need does not have dipstick holes in both sides. Does yours have the option for either side?
I had the same problem. |
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![]() The thinnest seal is 1/4" thick, medium is about 7/16", and the fel pro (blue measures about 9/16" (1/8" thicker than the assumed "thick seal"). I will just conclude that the extra 1/8" is part of the design, and is an acceptable difference, possibly necessary for a proper seal.. All I'm saying is; to an "ordinary" observer, the fel pro may look waay too thick.. Quote:
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If you decide to switch gaskets, (I have used several of the fel pro one piece gaskets like you have there with mixed results, go with engine techs gasket from competition products I have never had one leak on any of the motors I used them on.) Good luck with whatever you choose.
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Thanks for all the info fellas.. I didn't have an attractive set of stainless studs, so I tried drawing the pan/seal to the block with a few old bolts & nuts, and it seemed to work well.... I'll hopefully pick up some stainless studs & nuts tomorrow morning and be back on my way to having this thing finally running again..
Thanks again everyone eazy
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