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Think i sometimes put paint on too heavy !

7K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  tech69 
#1 ·
Hey guys ,


whats your thought on this ?

I apply 3 coats of ms-hs 2:1+10 thinners

The issue I have if you look straight into the paint it looks wet and crystal clear


look side onto the panel there is some ripples

Dose this sound like over application ?
 
#4 ·
There is nothing that causes more problems with paint, primer, clear or sealer than too much solvents in the film, NOTHING even comes close!

Don't apply products too heavy to make them "flow" (GOD how I hate that term) set the gun up properly, get the right gun and cap, and atomize the paint, primer, clear or sealer properly.

Brian
 
#7 ·
The thing is if it's atomized properly it doesn't end up full of solvent to shrink or die back.

Absolutely true that different clears will take that extra solvent differently. But a good rule of thumb is to avoid it no matter what clear you are spraying.

Brian
 
#10 ·
so do the flashes get longer after the 3rd coat? That's a lot of coats but long flash times have always made me feel good about things. My last job I could cut n buff the bajesus out of stuff but never felt 3 coats was enough. I didn't make that call but it bothered me and put me in a sticky when the results we wanted didn't mesh with what clear was on the car....my fault...as always. I mentioned trying 4 coats with a long flash, or at least asking around about it, but $$$ is too important to some people.
 
#18 ·
My theory on the wave is uneven drying due to too much clear to fast. I've always had the best results by applying only two coats at a time (with proper flash time) , let it cure over nite and sand with 600 and shoot two more coats. I don't usually go more than 4 coats but have done 6 coats this way with no wave at all using a 1.4 tip...when it comes time for buffing I start with 1500 never anything coarser. except on my flow indicators....:sweat: buffing is tough enough
 
#19 ·
Well the wave on my car is a friggin disaster in some places (if you know what you're looking for). Makes all that straight blocking I did on the body work for naught. I notice it most on the sides of the doors and fenders near the top. Maybe it's tolerable and I'm too critical or too much of a perfectionist. Or too demanding for my skill level. I will be trying these different to things when it comes time for the Mach.


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#20 ·
Well you have a good point there Lizer, even though you know how its done wont ensure a great job ,theres a lot to be said about experience too. That said ,you should be proud of the work you did on that stang because it looks great...Not only that ,you FINISHED it...so you get credit for that too. With all the trouble you had ,most would have gave up. You really cant expect perfection at this point.Just finishing it is a biggie...everything will be better and easier on the next one which BTW is an awesome car to start with too..
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the encouragement. Don't get me wrong, I am very proud of it. In fact when it was in at the headliner shop they looked at it when I dropped it off and said "where did you get this painted!?" I told them I did it and they asked "are you a painter or something?" And I told them no I was just nuts. So when I picked it up they were still marveling about it and told me it was--by far--the nicest, cleanest paint job they had ever seen on a car that's come through their shop. So that felt incredibly good to hear, considering how hard I worked.

But it's exactly like you said. You can know exactly what needs to be done to do an awesome paint job. Physically doing it is another story. My mind knows what to do buy my hands don't do it. However I painted a single stage red horse trailer for my dad that came out way too nice after that car.



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#21 ·
Have done the flow coat method, 3 coats clear then wet sand with 600 then 3 more coats. I personally did not see that much difference to warrant all the extra time and work involved going that route. Laying down the 5 coats on the initial clearing, and wet sand one time without a reclear just is much easier in my opinion. The flashtimes are the key here, and not hammering on heavy coats (the wave). I know everyone has there own way of achieving the same goal.
 
#22 ·
everyone has good valid points. the only thing I would add is to know your gun, know your shooting style and above all know your product! I am often ask to " ghost paint" at other shops doing custom paint and graphic work and before I shoot a customers car I will shoot some test panels and see how the product lays down. recently I did a custom job at a friends shop and he was using glaserit clear. I shoot with a very well maintained sata 2000 with a 1.3 tip the clear went on very grainy but seriously flow out during the flash time making it very difficult to judge . I finally got it to do what I wanted but was not impressed with the product. Larry
 
#25 · (Edited)
laying it down will come easier than getting it straight but when you do your own work you can prime it as many times as you want. Doing it in a shop when it's expected to be laser straight after two primes separates the decent techs from the good ones, but with that said getting it straight is just one aspect of auto body. It's really not important in production/ part swapping. That's awesome you're getting the hang of it quickly. It's not easy for everybody.
 
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