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Old 08-06-2013, 09:29 AM
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Think twice before purchasing a front end from Total Cost Involved (TCI)

I purchased one of their rear steer custom front ends about 8 years ago, and have been very dissatisfied with it. When I first purchased it, I had issues getting the rack to fit the crossmember because the holes would not line up. Talking to TCI's tech department was a total waste of time, and they weren't too eager to help. I actually posted my complaint here back in 2008 I don't recommend TCI front ends!!!!!!!!!

A couple of years, and 10000 miles later, the wheel bearings failed because TCI uses junk Chinese bearings. Also, at the same time I did the bearings, the rubber boots on the rack had to be replaced because they were starting to tear.

We're now 8 years later, and I'm still having issues with it and I tried to call their tech center but the correspondence with them was a waste of time. They're definitely not eager to help.

I got the car to handle a bit better, but only after having to machine the rack so that I could get enough movement.

The car now has 20000 miles, and the second set of boots are totally falling apart because TCI cheaps out on their parts, but yet charge big dollars for their product. I may have had this car in the rain 1/2 dozen times, and all the chrome on the rack is pitted with rust.
This is a high dollar car that has been featured in Street Rodder Magazine, and has also won many awards including Designer's Dozen at the Syracuse nationals, and the best of everything was used on it. Everything, except the front end.
I will never purchase anything from TCI again.

If TCI does not listen when one of their customers files complaint, then maybe they will change the way they do business when they start reading complaints on a large forum like this one which is viewed by thousands of customers.

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:58 AM
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didn't you post the same thing yesterday..


why yes you did..
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/thin...ci-235670.html
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:58 AM
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I would suggest calling Sal, he is the VP. He will most definitely take the time to not only answer your questions but also help anywhere he can with the issues you're having. Not to mention that he is the boss of anyone who has not treated you properly.

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Old 08-06-2013, 01:10 PM
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I did post this yesterday, and it was moved by the Moderator(you)to the dump section, just like this one will be probably in a few hours. It's too bad we live in a world where everything is now censored, even when one fellow hot-rodder is looking out for others. Unless TCI is a contributing vendor to this site, I don't know why my post should be moved because this post is steering related.

The tech Guy I have been talking to was not rude in any way, it's just that when I have specific technical questions about the product they manufacture they seem unable to answer.
I wanted to know what the design track width of their front end was, and they couldn't tell me. I also asked what was a desirable scrub radius and they couldn't tell me that either. This is all important information one needs to select the right size tire and rim offset.

I think the front end geometry they are using is similar to the Pinto's which originally had skinny 13" tires. I'm running a tire which is 26" in dia, with a zero offset wheel and my scrub radius is somewhere around 4", which is way too large IMO. This gives too much feedback to the steering wheel.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi43 View Post
I did post this yesterday, and it was moved by the Moderator(you)to the dump section, just like this one will be probably in a few hours. It's too bad we live in a world where everything is now censored, even when one fellow hot-rodder is looking out for others. Unless TCI is a contributing vendor to this site, I don't know why my post should be moved because this post is steering related.

The tech Guy I have been talking to was not rude in any way, it's just that when I have specific technical questions about the product they manufacture they seem unable to answer.
I wanted to know what the design track width of their front end was, and they couldn't tell me. I also asked what was a desirable scrub radius and they couldn't tell me that either. This is all important information one needs to select the right size tire and rim offset.

I think the front end geometry they are using is similar to the Pinto's which originally had skinny 13" tires. I'm running a tire which is 26" in dia, with a zero offset wheel and my scrub radius is somewhere around 4", which is way too large IMO. This gives too much feedback to the steering wheel.
So did you call Sal yet? He can answer those questions pretty easily.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:58 PM
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ok, 8 years old -Do you think rubber last forever? Caught in the rain 1/2 dozen times- Did you wipe the chrome down? did you use compressed air? Did you wax it at all? Again 8 years later and you never cleaned & repacked the wheel berings!!! again dust seal rubber, caught in the rain. Put some blame on yourself here.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi43 View Post
I did post this yesterday, and it was moved by the Moderator(you)to the dump section, just like this one will be probably in a few hours. It's too bad we live in a world where everything is now censored, even when one fellow hot-rodder is looking out for others. Unless TCI is a contributing vendor to this site, I don't know why my post should be moved because this post is steering related.

The tech Guy I have been talking to was not rude in any way, it's just that when I have specific technical questions about the product they manufacture they seem unable to answer.
I wanted to know what the design track width of their front end was, and they couldn't tell me. I also asked what was a desirable scrub radius and they couldn't tell me that either. This is all important information one needs to select the right size tire and rim offset.

I think the front end geometry they are using is similar to the Pinto's which originally had skinny 13" tires. I'm running a tire which is 26" in dia, with a zero offset wheel and my scrub radius is somewhere around 4", which is way too large IMO. This gives too much feedback to the steering wheel.
I'm not a mod.
but it's odd that a company that has thousands of set up's on the road, did as you say, maybe call them like the other guy posted, and not have a hair across your___________ and you'll get some where..
you say you called them in 2008, but it's been on your rig for 8 years..
that means for 3 years you had no issues , or not enough to bother calling, now 8 years later and 20k miles on the kit. you want what exactly..
china bearings don't wear out in 10k miles unless the pre load is wrong(user error) or not greased correctly.. no bearings will last if not installed correctly..
parts fail, even the best stuff., the rack is not made by them, they have no control over what boots are used until and if they start having many fail..
3 years into use (and if it's got 20k on it in 8 years) and 8500 miles what you want replacement parts for free??
now 8 years later and 20k miles you got a beef..
cool story bro.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:02 PM
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oh come on censored my A**!! You are to blame not the company!!! they dumped it because of your errors!!!! also do you have climate control for storage. i can go on and on here!!! 2009 road king a few pits starting. Geez only four years old with 30k on her.
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Old 08-06-2013, 07:22 PM
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I have to disagree with at least most of the OPs rant. Yes, I do have a rear steer TCI front suspension. Yes, I do have a FULL stage III TCI chassis and yes, it was expensive. I have had only one problem with their chassis - the springs were wrong rates for the car. TCI supplied one replacement set - but they too were wrong, but that was 50% my fault so the chrome plated set now on the car. Yes, everything fit - perfectly and after several thousands of miles, no wear, car tracks perfectly with no visible tire wear. All of the chrome is still in fine shape and the stainless is still immaculate and it has occasionally been wet. No, my car has never been featured in any magazine, but chassis wise, it will stand up with many street rods home built by their owner and it gets improved as I feel the need or necessary. As far as talking to TCI - yeah, that can be a trial to get the right person, but they did answer all of my questions and supplied replacements for a couple damaged in shipping (UPS??)

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Old 08-06-2013, 09:18 PM
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I had a buddy show up with his truck tonight with a Heidt's front end. We estimated the scrub radius on his to be about 1 1/2" compared to TCI's 4". This is where the problem is on their front ends, and we are both running 0 offset rims. I've stated my point, but there's obviously too many internet trolls throwing their 2 cents in, so this will be my last post. Take it for what it's worth !!
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:37 PM
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I will post one last thing!!
This is what started my hate for TCI front ends, and this is the picture I had sent them in 08 asking why there was no room to mount the boot on the rack. Something was either fabricated wrong on my front end, or the rack was messed up right from the beginning. In the previous picture above, you can see the boot is not even attached to the rack. I had to machine a sleeve to extend the the rack so the boot could be clamped.
BTW, my car is in fact stored in a climate controlled environment !!
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:13 AM
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why does that chassis look like it's not run yet, but the rack looks used..
with miles on it..
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:11 AM
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that sure does not look like a high dollar chassis. you never answered so you did not wipe or wax it, sorry ! and to call me a troll because i told you how it is . Be gone!!
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:08 AM
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Looking at post #10 and the angles of the control arms - yeah. I know, bagged, but if that is close to how the car is driven, will tear up ball joints and anything else cushioned in rubber or not made to run at a severe angle. Now, running '0' offset wheels - not a very good idea, IMO, in that it puts all of the lever arm moment on those outer wheel bearings, Chinese or otherwise. The wheels along with the tires and the subsequent load needs to be as close to centered as possible between the two spindle bearings, or if need be, towards the larger inner assembly. As an example, just take a long bolt and put a fender washer on it in the middle and lift it up. Your pulling force will bring it up level. Now, slide the washer to one end and do the same - that bolt no longer comes up straight. I have a large travel trailer that had the wrong wheels from the factory as many others had. That was only about 3/8" (10mm) offset. This caused many hub and spindle failures and to the point that the Canadian manufacturer replaced the axles to something compatible with the wheels or, if not the original owner ( I'm not) at a much reduced price. Troubles have gone away.

Sorry if others don't want to have an intelligent conversation, but most folks here will work with you and at least brainstorm a problem. So - don't give up yet

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