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Old 06-24-2005, 08:42 AM
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Thinking of building a 383 - advise/help please

Hey guys,

Okay here's the story. We have a 350 that's got 103k miles on it and it's getting rebuilt now. We took it to the machine shop and the bottom line is, it's got to be bored. So I got the idea of making it a 383 with the attitude of "Hey, we have to bore it anyway, so lets just ad the longer stroke plus connecting rods, crank, etc..."

I talked to my dad about it and he wouldn't mind making one, he's just a little concerned about the cost!

I've noticed there's been a lot of 383 threads on this board recently regarding the engine, so I was wondering if you guys could give me some advise about what to get as far as kits and everything. How much would I be looking at spending?

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Old 06-24-2005, 09:34 AM
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You asked a very tough question. I don't think anyone can give a good answer without more details.

You can build a 383 for just about the same price as a 350. The price goes up from there depending on what you are trying to do. How much power are you going to try to make? What will this engine be used for? If it is a mild street only engine that will not be puished regularly then you can build a 383 very cheap (cast parts and GM parts). If you plan to use nitrous in the future, or plan to really make good power then you need to step up on the parts. It's just like any other engine you have to build the bottom end to live the life it's going to be subjected to.

Build it just like you would a 350, If you planned on rebuilding your 350 with the cast crank, stock rods and cast pistons then do the same for the 383. Does this make sense or help?

Royce
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:13 AM
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Yes, thanks a lot.

The car it'll go into first is a 1973 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4 door sedan, then down the road possibly a 1971 Camaro Z/28. The car is mostly a street car/highway cruiser. But I will take to the strip occasionally. Mostly we want good fuel economy and power from it, we have a 700R4 that's going in it to help with the economy.

It's not going to be a strip car at all, just a cruiser that will get taken for a 'spirited' drive now and then by me


EDIT~ Specs on what the 350 has in it:

Comp cam 264H
Edelbrock Performer intake
HEI ignition
4 Barrel carb.
Roller rockers
Roller timing chain
Hydraulic Lifters
Headers
2-bolt main
High Volume oil pump
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:16 AM
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We're going to get a high volume chrome water pump to go with it along with some hydraulic roller lifters.
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:48 AM
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I am in the same boat you are how big a carb do you need for a 400-500 horse 383. I have done the carb calculator and come up with about 600cfm but if you look in jegs they rate 500hp at like 750cfm do you really need that big of a carb and I am torn between the double pumper and the street avenger any suggestions. Also how big of a fuel pump would it require? The last question I have is I have read many good posts on the edelbrock performer rpm manifold but it is good from 1500-6500 while the performer is good from ideal to 5500 I will be putting it I a weekend cruiser but I want it to be quick when I get on it.

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Good luck with your build.
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:27 PM
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You'd probably be fine with just the Performer for a weekend cruiser.
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Old 06-24-2005, 04:30 PM
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Both of you are asking some good questions. There really is no right answer it all depends on the use of the car and the rest of the combination.

If you have a cam in mind that is good from idle to 5500 then the Performer manifold would be my choice. If you have a larger cam, headers, decent heads, then I would lean towards the Performer RPM. I can't tell you which is better, because one is not "better" than the other.

The best advice I can give both of you is to figure out your goals. Once you know that pick parts that will get you there and make sure the parts all work together (same RPM range). COMBINATION is everything when building an engine.

The same goes for the carb question, if you are putting this 383 in a tow truck with a small cam and mild intake then the 650CFM carb will do just fine. If you are building a street/strip car and are after all the HP you can get I wouldn't put anything smaller than a 750 on it. Once again COMBINATION is the key.

You can have two 383's that are nothing at all alike. Cubic inches are only part of the story. I can't cover every possible combiantion or situation. If you do a search you should be able to find enough info to give you an idea of what you want. At that point ask more specific questions and people will be able to guide you a little better.

Royce
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Old 06-24-2005, 09:10 PM
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I would think that a 5500RPM redline is great for a 383 as you wouldn't have to rev as high to get the max HP/TQ. I get what you're saying about combos though.

I was wondering what a good 383 kit would cost, what a cheap one we could get? I already have a camshaft in mind. It's from Comp, I'm either going to do an Xtreme Energy cam or one of the Magnum cams. Possibly the 280 or something.

I would like an idea on 383 kits though, could you give me some links or something?
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Old 06-24-2005, 11:08 PM
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I have seen kits in jegs eagle or scat make a good kit. Or just type it in google. Ebay also has some.
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Old 06-25-2005, 08:16 AM
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look here,

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...?CategoryId=76



http://www.northernautoparts.com






Mustangsaly
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Old 06-25-2005, 10:19 AM
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cheap alternatives

Eagle 383 crank
Stock rods, resized, debeamed, shot peened, ARP studs.
New cast flat top pistons.
Have the heads ported, and 2.02 valves installed.
You can plane the head and 0 deck for more compression.
Cam .488 to .500 lift.
Pass on the roller rockers, aftermarket stamped steel will work just fine.
Perf/Rpm intake.
With this combo you can shift at 6300 rpm safely.
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Old 06-26-2005, 02:26 AM
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Those links already have a camshaft in them, I've got a camshaft in mind already, it's one from comp.
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Old 06-26-2005, 09:02 AM
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Here is another question. Why is internal balancing so much more expensive and is it worth it.
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:19 AM
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http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:22 AM
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Internal balancing is more expensive because it takes more work and the heavy metal used to add weight to the crank is VERY expensive. Internal balancing is nice, but not an absolute must. If you are going to make big power I would internally balance it. If it is a mild build I wouldn't worry about it.

Royce
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