[QUOTE=cobalt327]Not suitable for street duty in a car, it has a granny low, it's a HD truck tranny.
As for the heads, etc. I'd advise you to get an adjustable valve train on it. To try to juggle p-rod length to get the right lifter preload is not a first-timer's deal, IMO. Not saying it can't be done- I AM saying that it's not easy to get right, it IS easy to get wrong- and if you get it wrong enough, the valves and pistons can hit and p-rods get bent, or the valves get held off the seats and get burnt and/or the engine runs like crap.
Louis: Cobalt is telling you right on, and If you run anti pump up lifters and set them with the adjustable rockers at .001" or .002" you wont have to worry about lifter pre load
The only thing I can add is when installed, where the rocker adjuster and push rod meet there should only be 2 or 3 threads of the adjuster showing under the rocker, if there are more your push rods need to be longer!! You can use lash caps to take up minor changes like .040, .060, .080 etc!!! I just did a ford 427 tunnel port and I needed about 1/4 inch longer push rods on the intakes and about 1/8 longer on the exhausts to get the adjustable rockers in the right geometry! So get a couple of adjustable push rods to get your geometry right and then measure them to get your right length! Make sure you check all 16 push rod lengths (at every rocker) with these adjustable push rods measuring each and then getting an average of the lengths you measured and that's the length you need! You pm'ed me your in high school and on a real tight budget? I also see by your pms that you really want to learn
) And from what I read your looking at a used cam and valve train? Am I right? If I am Be careful buying used, check all valve spring pressures, mike the wear on the cam (each lobe) and the bearing surfaces, check every roller rocker for any flaws, check every push rod for straightness ( if they can even be used, you must put each part back on the way it came off the other engine, If you put a used lifter on a different lobe then its been broke in on it will do damage (9 out of 10 times)
You should also order new rocker arm shafts and eliminate any flaws or wear your old shafts may have from years of use.
Like Cobalt says that trans has to go, call some trucking outfits or trans shops maybe one will buy it for a good price or even trade for a trans you can use if you chip in some cash. What city & state are you in? One of us might live right around the corner from you , you never know!
You picked "one of the hardest" engines there is to learn with by your self Even with a stack of books its very very hard without a hands on instructor (that's very knowledgeable on ford side oilers!!!) There are so many things books and the internet take for granted a person already knows that isn't covered at all But if you learn it right and don't take short cuts you'll be leaps ahead of most mechanics, and will have something you can be proud of and remember when your old and on a site like this helping some other guy!!
On your budget don't worry about High priced aluminum heads, you can get em later. and on the ford particularly if your deck or heads have been milled any time in the past you have to mill the bottom of the intake and sometimes the port faces<and make sure if your mocking up the engine for measuring your push rods that you use the head gasket thickness you'll use when the engine is assembled! If you had a valve job done make sure all your valve stem tip heights are the same (Put a long straight edge across all the stem tips on each head and look and see if any are short ( on the side oilers this is very important) look between the stem tips and straight edge even take a picture and post it and post on this thread what you see if you cant post the pics (I for one am very interested)
The side oilers rip bell housings apart so dont run that old truck housing!!
or an aluminum!!! Ford made a (bullet proof ) nodular housing but their very rare (like the nodular 9 inch rear ). See if you can get a good used lakewood or equivalent!! Im guessing the 352 you started with is a heavy (lugger) truck engine?
Even with adjustable rockers you have to set valve lash on side oilers with conventional hydraulic lifters collapsed!!! there is no such thing as any 3/4 turn or 1/2 turn ETC, ETC from zero !!!!
The only way you can get around this is to run ".000 lash anti pump up lifters" set em at .001" or .002 hot & running or you could change your mind and
run a solid cam and put down some real power (But you still have to worry about push rod length) LOL and Firebird suggested a very good cam for your build with probably very little valve train work if any!!
I pit crewed & ran G.M., I also pit crewed & ran Fords & Chrysler's I even ran ford & chryslers engines in chevys, at the strips LOL ! And their great powerful engines!! Im Into Chevy engines for myself now, But still do engine work on the old Fords & Chryslers! Im really surprised at work done By the new breed of mechanics now that really shouldn't even put their hands on these old engines. In michigan we have a Pre 1972 certification!! I dont know if other states do!