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Going back to your first original post you stated this is a "Street car" and the Strip once in a while,rather than tearing into a used Holley double pumper you could go this route http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08750VS/ Since you are bent on buying a Comp Cam better read this:http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
Last edited by JeffB; 03-09-2012 at 06:26 PM. |
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thanks this has helped me alot. also do you think my borg and warner t-18 will last?
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oh maybe i should have said thats my tranny
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T- 18s a heavy duty truck trans are you building a 3/4 or 1 ton truck or did you mean T-10 I thought you were building a car?Chris |
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ya its a car i got the tranny with the engine. i think its a borg and warner t-18 but i am not for sure.
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thumpr cam
hey guys i was looking on comp when i came across the thumpr cam. do you guys think they gain power or are they just show cams? oh it is a ford fe.
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Your camshaft threads have been merged together. Stop posting threads of the same subjects, read the guidelines.
__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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Stay away from that summit carb !!! The carb build firebird suggested is a very easy build and will flow very well and should be well in your budget rather then spending big money for a comparable carb new and then modifying it to fit your build !
The old 406 and 390 interceptor (Police cars) ran lifts of around .480 .490 hydraulic to as high as .524 solid (actual lift .498 at the valves minus the lash) in the 427s!! So you should stay with a cam at or a little bellow .500 lift and as firebird said call crain or comp or isky or racer brown and they will set you up with a cam grind where you wont need to radically alter your valve geometry! I would have thought you would have already called & posted what they said its a tole free #! And over the years they've probably already done the exact grind you need and have all the specs or could tell you a grind they already have setting right on the shelf gathering dust!!! If you don't see it in a catalog it doesn't mean they don't have it! If you get a thumper 500 or more lift you'll be putting big money in your valve train and not get the performance for the money! If thats a t-18 trans sell it and look for a T-10 or super t-10. That T-18 may have a creeper gear for a dump truck I dont know your age but Im guessing your young and need a lot of help. Oh The F.E stands for ford engine I myself call them side oilers LOL Jester |
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cam specs
ok here is the specs for the lunati cam advertised duration 300/300, valve lift .514/.514
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__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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500]ok here is the specs for the lunati cam advertised duration 300/300, valve lift .514/.514[/QUOTE]
Heres all the specs on the cam your looking at Louis: call Lunati and check it out before you make the deal! See exactly what changes in valve train geometry you may need to do if any!! If its a used cam and components (push rods, springs,Etc. and was set up for a different F.E. they may be quite different then what your F.E. valve train specs are!!! Especially if it was run in a 427 ,medium rise or high rise, or 428 Your push rods would be completely different in length !!! The way to do it is when you buy the cam and lifters and necessary springs and retainers set at proper height and its assembled With the valve completely closed on the heal of the cam lob and the lifter completely collapsed you measure the gap between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm and pick a length push rod that will give you a lash measurement of between .100" and .200" if you run an anti pump up lifter or a roads type you decrease the gap accordingly! I said there are no short cuts You could swap the same cam into 3 different 390s and have different length push rods in each engine. Or different thickness lash caps! The reason for this is the different decks or if the valve stems have been dressed, Different stem heights because of machining (valves set deeper in the seat), weather the heads have been milled, different head gasket thickness Etc, Etc. You could even have different length push rods from cylinder to cylinder But that's usually done with lash caps!! The ford F.E is not a cookie cutter chevy it has to be precise its not forgiving! You must keep the rockers on the shaft in their proper geometry to the push rod and the valve stem tip even if you get adjustable rockers you have to keep this geometry ( its the same with all rocker shaft engines !! I dont think it can be explained much better then I just tried! http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2258&gid=245 Jester |
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hey
hey 68 nova its the bottom one the t-18.
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As for the heads, etc. I'd advise you to get an adjustable valve train on it. To try to juggle p-rod length to get the right lifter preload is not a first-timer's deal, IMO. Not saying it can't be done- I AM saying that it's not easy to get right, it IS easy to get wrong- and if you get it wrong enough, the valves and pistons can hit and p-rods get bent, or the valves get held off the seats and get burnt and/or the engine runs like crap. Go w/something like (you seem to like Comp): ![]() COMP ADJUSTABLE ROCKERS And bolt them on a set of (budget permitting) Edelbrock Ford FE RPM aluminum heads. The heads are similar to the medium riser 427 heads. And whatever else you do or don't do- lose the stock cast iron boat anchor (80 pounds or so) intake manifold and put headers on it. Last edited by cobalt327; 03-11-2012 at 12:57 AM. |
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thanks f-bird when i looked at the reviews they said it was a show camthanks for everthing! louis
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