[IDRINKNITRO]

You might also check out the 5th down picture. Look closely and you can see what looks like a nice dig into the rocker body right dead center where the trunion is. To the left side of the stud in the picture. I would look at that carefully and possibly replace that one. At the very least sand or file that raised area down, clean it with laquer thinner and look at it REAL close.

[Sw1tchfoot]

Okay, I did some work today. I pulled the starter and got the casting number.
C5AE-6015E = 1965 289 (I'm not really the too fond of that..)

I also ran the engine without the valve cover, and held my finger on each.. nut? and found the one that had the vibration that went along with the tick. I looked at it closer and saw the problem, the problem showed up in the picture I took earlier too:

The roller has some side to side movement and you can see it is rubbing into the rocker body. The rest don't have any noticable side to side play.

Originally Posted by IDRINKNITRO

You might also check out the 5th down picture. Look closely and you can see what looks like a nice dig into the rocker body right dead center where the trunion is. To the left side of the stud in the picture. I would look at that carefully and possibly replace that one. At the very least sand or file that raised area down, clean it with laquer thinner and look at it REAL close.

If I am looking at the same spot that you are looking at, I looked at it closer today and it looks fine. I guess it just showed up bad in the picture?

[rsfyj]

I always cut the guide plates and pair them . when 2 guides are tied together you cant align them properly. it makes no difference who the maker is Cut them in half and set each individually to align each push rod. I have always had perfect alignment this way. And we Raced at 8000 Rpms no problemeo

[Sw1tchfoot]

Since I can't find the same rockers anywhere, should I replace all the rockers or can I just replace the bad one with a different brand one? If so, recommend me one to buy; if not then recommend a good set.

[WDCreech]

If I'm not mistaken, they have ERSON on the roller end. If so, have you tried to get hold of Erson Cams to see if they still make them?

[Sw1tchfoot]

Yeah, I looked for "Erson rocker arms" several times and never found an official website. Since you mentioned "Erson Cams" I looked that up and it seems that they are now possibly owned by pbmperformance and it seems that they still sell the rocker arms in sets. I'll contact them, Thanks.

[Sw1tchfoot]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

....Some of the springs (exhaust especially) look like they've rusted. Not a good thing, this can create stress risers and a broken spring can result from that....

Just for an update. I adjusted the noisy rocker a few weeks ago (I know.. I'm slow I posted this thread at the end of '2011), and the noise was gone for a day and was back to it's full glory in a couple of days.

Several weeks later (earlier this month) I was rolling down the road.. going about 15mph and the ticking got louder. I had a dead miss and a shudder on acceleration. I drove the 10 miles home and pulled a valve cover. I looked at the rocker that had originally been ticking. It was fine. I pulled the other cover and didn't see anything either. I pulled all the rockers and while leaning over the engine put my hand on a valve and.. I felt it push down some The spring was broken.. The valve didn't contact the piston however.

Originally Posted by IDRINKNITRO

ISKY has the cure for the issue with the roller tip of the rocker arm not correctly aligned with the valve stem tip. They are adjustable guide plates. I dont have the part # handy, but have used many sets of them. They are very inexpensive, ISKY quality and will help cure that alignment issue. This is still not addressing what could be a geometry problem. By the looks of things in those pictures, that engine needs going over with a fine toothe comb.

I got the isky guideplates now, and I will be using a teflon based thread sealant to install the studs as cobalt327 suggested.

Originally Posted by cobalt327

The exhaust valves look like they have the hardened tips like were used w/the rail rockers and positive stop studs, but the intakes don't look the same. I can't tell by looking at what can be seen of the stud bosses whether the heads were originally pedestal or not. But then again I'm not a "Ford guy", per se.

It's funny that you also mentioned something about the valves. I already have the engine about ready to put back together. While replacing the valve springs we did the valves too, none of them had a great seal. We ground the seats to clean them up and cleaned up the valves too and lapped them in. The exhaust side came out great. The intake side? Every intake valve was sunk. I now valve all new intake valves and seats. Why would the intake side sink? All the guides were good too.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Sw1tchfoot

Why would the intake side sink? All the guides were good too.

That the intakes are sunken and the exhausts aren't takes unleaded fuel out of the picture for the most part. What may have happened is the intake seats were bad enough that the seats had to be sunk that far to get the seats back during a valve job, or an incompetent machinist botched the valve job.