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Old 06-28-2006, 05:22 PM
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Tie Rod Material

Hi!!
I am building a 23-T and just switched to a coil over rear suspension set-up.
I have built the attachment brackets for a rear Pan Hard Bar. I plan on welding the 5"bracket to the tube on the right top of a 8" rear end and the smaller bracket welded to the outside rear lower left corner of the frame..
I need advice on 3 items.. First I need to make a 26" 3/4 OD tube with internal 5/8 fine threads one end right one end left, I need to know what material to buy for the tube I would assume the same type material that Tie Rods and Drag links are fabricated from..What is the the spec..1020 seamless mandrel type tubing or some other spec?
Second.. The outside dimension of the frame is approx. 28.5 inches.. it is a Speedway frame for a T-bucket with a 10"kick up for the rear suspension..
I have the shock mounts for the upper and lower mounting of 14"to `16" coil over shocks with 5/8 Id mounting eyes.. With a 20 degree angle from the lower mount to the upper mount I know the effective spring and shock rate is .88% With this light weight T-bucket..I am considering 180# springs on Edelbrock Shocks...Will this be effective? Third... Attachment of the Pan Hard Bar..I know this is used to maintain the center line of the rear end centered in the frame..Does it make any difference if Hiem Joints are used on each end..where the attachment to the axle and the frame are made.. I can move the 5" Steel bracket with the 5/8 hole for the Heim attachment on the right axle tube top to the right or left and weld it in place.. I planned on installing it so the attachment point would be just to the right of the right rear outside corner of the frame..with the bar on a diagonal from that attachment to the outside rear lower corner of the frame on the left side of the frame....My question is..Do those attachments need to be inside the frame tails? Outside? or does it make any difference as long as the action of the bar is the maximum allowable by the suspension and the intersection of the Pumpkin to the bar or frame..
Thanx for your time and consideration Bob "Slohand" Mosher

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Old 06-29-2006, 12:13 AM
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Hi Bob
I'm sure someone else can give you more info on this. The pan hard bar on my 57 truck with a 4-link is 1" o.d. with a 1/2x20 thread. It runs paralell to the rear end. Their are a number of places that you can buy universal bars from and cut to fit and rethread one end(TCI, Jegs, Summit). Ive also seen bar stock that you can weld threaded inserts into to make up your own.
Good luck.
Kim
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:20 PM
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Hi Kim57..
I appreciate the info..Thank you for the time and consideration of my questions..Perhaps I was not clear on my request..I have the Hiems and brackets that I fabricated for the Pan hard bar..I was interested in Knowing the specs for the metal tube to purchase.. to make the actual bar..I want 7/3 or 1 inch tube with an inside diameter that will allow 5/8 fine threads in each end..Should I use 1020 mild steel, Drawn over mandrel or 1026 DOM or 4130 Chrome Moly.. or just plain old 1008-1010 ERW ( Electric Welded) mild steel tube With an ID of .500 to .562 which would allow a .625 tap ?? I figured on using material that would be similar with Tie Rod or Drag Link material..Does anyone know what material is used for the Tie Rods or Drag Link..rods???. Thanx for any infoanyone has on the subject..Bob "Slohand" Mosher
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Old 06-29-2006, 05:31 PM
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Been building rods for years and have always used schedule 40 black pipe to make the panhard bars, P&J styled fourbars, tie rods etc. I don't remember where I got them from but I have a left and right handed tap to put internal threads in them that will allow tie rod ends or heim joints to screw right into the pipe.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:19 PM
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HI Henry..
Thanx..I really appreciate the info...Will look into sched 40 black pipe with and ID that will allow me to right and left tap 5/8 X20 threads into each end so I can install Hiems and jam nuts.. Thanx again Bob"slohand"Mosher
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:28 PM
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the lower links see the majority of teh stress, i over build because it is SUSPENSION and your life depends on it, so i use chromoly for links and suspension parts, but you will fall over at the price and you will need to buy 20', i would suggest buying premade modifiable(is that a word) links, but if someone has run sch 40 pipe then do whatever you want


Brendan
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:32 PM
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Bob....pipe is measured by ID...so half inch pipe ( Schedule 40 has thick walls) it will tap out to 5/8 just fine.
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Old 06-30-2006, 01:33 AM
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I don't think I would even recommend the 5/8" rod ends...let alown black "poop" pipe

I would say at least some thick wall 1" DOM (1020 and 1026 are most common) but for the lower links I would run a larger OD (like 1.5").

You might be better off getting some plain tube locally and getting tube adapters (from someplace like Chassis Shop ) to fit the rod ends. That way you can use larger OD tube and be able to cut them to the right length without having to tap them.

Suicide Doors also has pre-tapped link tubing...but the smallest they go is 3/4"-16
http://www.suicidedoors.com/4LinkParts4-LinkTubing.php
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Old 06-30-2006, 05:02 PM
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Hi Guys..
I really appreciate the information you all have sent.. After I looked over the information and researched some tubing specs..I also called some local guys that do machine work for the local Hot rodders..I have decided to use 1" Chrome Moly..A weldor and friend as well as the machinist we both use recommended it..I can get the part pre fabbed by machinist..I have the Spherical Rod ends and I have fabricated the brackets.. I agree with Triage and Sha_ba_Da_Bang... In that these are suspension parts, and my life depends upon them and the strength.. Using Black pipe would probably work..but the unknown strength and origin of the pipe as well as the work to put an acceptable paint finish on it..are not worth the cost difference..I agree that buying a 20 foot length of chrome Moly tube would be a bit spendy to fabricate a 26 inch part and a 48 inch part... Then what would I do with the left over 13 feet of high class tubing??? So I made a deal with the local machinist to have him make em from his chrome moly tie rod and drag link material...Cost wise it worked out to under 1/2 the price the parts are advertised in some of the Hot rod Catalogs.. Again..Thank you for your time and response to my request for assistance...Bob"slohand"Mosher
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