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Tilt Column for 66 GMC?
Hi all,
I've just realized, after removing and comparing a tilt column out of a 79 C20, that it has no gearshift indicator (PRND21)! CRAP! The indicator is mounted in the instrument panel. Other than that it looks perfect ! The length of the shaft appears to be identical, and I'm using the P/S box of the 79 as well, so I know that will match. I read all 27 of the posts in the KB, and came up with the fact that 70's Chev/GM vans have the built-in PRND21 and also do not have the ign switch on them. Those are all good things! I think I'd rather leave the ignition switch on the dash. I am imagining, however, that the steering shaft on a van will be quite short. This is probably ideal for a 32 roadster, but not so good for my truck! Can anyone tell me if it will be possible to make "one column out of the two"? Also, I was reading a tech article at: http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htm where they mention having to shorten the STOCK steering shaft by cutting, shortening, and welding a "slip collar" to bridge the 2 shafts. As I said earlier, the 79 shaft appears to be identical in length ... meaning that it, too, would have to shortened by 2 inches. I noticed that it is the newer "safety collapsible" style , which will collapse on impact. (I believe that is what they refererred to in those posts as a "double D") Is it possible to shorten the overall length by purposely breaking or removing the (nylon?) pins, then drilling new holes and re-inserting or replacing them? Dang! I thought I had this "made in the shade"! I probably wouldn't have a problem counting the detent clicks to find the right gear, but it might confuse my dear wife and kids (IF I let them drive it!) TIA for any info or suggestions, Don |
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Quote:
Yes you could shorten the newer column by collapsing the safety portion of the column. I don't think you would have to re-pin, it won't go anywhere. I have replaced a couple of intermediate shafts on S-10's and they do not have nylon or plastic retainers. There is the concern that you would be losing the safety that the newer column would provide, but if you stay with a earlier version it won't have it anyway. Besides there are other safety hazards on the interior of the truck that would prove to be quite painful in the event of a wreck. (next time you are sitting in the seat behind the wheel notice how your knees line up with the ignition key, and other knobs on the lower dash. )
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This is interesting because I was going to change out the column in my '72 and the other column is about 3/4" longer. As above, someone told me to just break the plastic holding the safety slip joint.
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I have a tilt column in my 71K5 (with key in dash and gear indicator). I HATE IT!!!
The design of GM tilt columns leaves MUCH to be desired. The bearings are too close together placing way too much load on them. What is the worst on them is people using the steering wheel to help them get into the car/truck (lifted trucks this is the worst but it still happens on low stuff). I know better and never used the steering wheel to get into my truck...but I'm sure the previous owner didn't know better. The inner race on the lower bearing in the tilt section of the column shattered causing all the balls to drop out. When I tried to find a new bearing I found that no one sells the inner race They only sell the outter race and balls as an assembly. After not spending way too much time trying to find a bearing that would fit I did a "hack job" on modifying it to make a metric bearing fit.I tore down the entire steering column (not an easy task!), chucked up the upper shaft in my drill press, and used a file to get it down from 1" to 25mm. I then took my die grinder and enlarged the pot metal tilt housing bore so the larger bearing would fit (don't remember the OD?). I should have swapped in a non-tilt steering column When I get the time I think I am going to swap to just a straight solid shaft with a bearing mounted to the cage (which I haven't made yet) and toss the entire steering column in the trash I don't think GM solved any problems (in fact they just made more!) in the tilt columns till the late 90's. Do yourself a favor and use a standard non-tilt column! Last edited by Triaged; 06-13-2005 at 02:06 PM. |
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Non-tilt column
Ignore this one.
Last edited by 66GMC; 06-14-2005 at 04:18 AM. |
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Non-tilt column
Wow Triaged!
Sounds like you have not had a good experience with that and what you say about using the wheel as an assist makes sense. Ford was no better ... I worked as a Ford Partsman for about 14 years, and pretty much had the "usual" repair part numbers committed to memory. I am going to be "forced" to do a column change as the truck was "3 on the tree". I think the 3-spd auto WAS an option in 1966, although I have never even SEEN one in Saskatchewan or Alberta. I have seen ONE with a powerglide ... I guess all of the Canadian farmers were "value-conscious consumers" (cheap) in those days. They sure aren't anymore though ... there sure are a LOT of decked out " Cowboy Cadillacs" around these parts now!I think I'd really like to have a tilt column. The factory wheel has always been a little uncomfortable, and too close to my lap (even years ago, when my measurements were considerably less than my present "full-figured" state. ) )I wonder if going with a new Ididit or Flaming River tilt column may be the way to go? Perhaps they have a better bearing setup? I'd appreciate hearing more comments from others ... is this hatred of GM tilt columns a common sentiment? Hmmm ... I got a message about a "database error" when I tried to reply to this thread, so I apoligize in advance if it shows up being posted twice |
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I'm sure not everyone has as bad of luck as I do. I also had problems with my 87 s10 tilt column (same one used in almost every GM of that era). Both of the problems happended while on road trips and I had to hold the wheel in the proper alignment to keep the steering from binding. Not something I would like to go through again. Steering is the last thing I would comprimize on. I haven't had problems sence I fixed them. If you do want to swap in a used steering column I sugust you go through the whole thing replacing the bearings and lock-titing all the fastners. It might not be a bad idea to use the metric bearings like I did because you can't (at least I couldn't) get replacements for the old ones.
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I think using the steering wheel to get into the truck is compounded by the 4wd being taller then a 2wd. Mine also has a 4" lift on it making it even worse. I heard stories of breaking steering columns from using them to get into the truck. I never touched the steering wheel till I was seated and it still broke after owning it for about 3 years. My only guess is that the damage was done by all of its previous owners.
I am sure the bearings are sized right for normal driving loads but they are no where near strong enough to hold up to even a portion of body weight pulling down on the wheel. The problem is that the bearings are very close together and the bearings are very thin (small OD for the ID). Because the bearings are spread so far apart on manual columns they put much less load on the bearings. Maybe no one else but me has this problem and that is why they don't sell the bearing race? The stupid metric bearing I ended up with was about half the cost of the replacement bearing so even if you don't have the problems I did going to the metric bearings might still be an option (just about all bearings are metric now days). |
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