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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2006, 07:23 PM
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I really like your system. The wife and I came up with one of our own that is working real good. We had some 6 inch pipe that we got when they put our new well in and we put two of them in next to the walls of the shop and I picked up an 8 inch I beam from a friend of mine and we built a gantry. I had to get the trolley from Harbor Freight and a chain hoist. I used a piece of 2x2 box tubing I had left over from building a trailer and a couple slices of 4x4 angle iron and attached a piece of 3 inch pipe about 20 inches long in the center of the 2x2. I made a similar one for the back with bolts in the 4x4 to attach to the trunk frame mount holes. I used 2 inch pipe in the center of it and we jacked it up and slid it into the pipe on my motor stand. I snagged a huge inter tube at the truck shop just in case and we rotated the 47 on its side to work on the bottom. Gumpa

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Old 01-21-2006, 07:45 PM
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cost of steel

To buy and have it cut was around $4oo.00. I already had the wheels.and jacks to raise and lower the car. If you want or need a list of materials you can probley shop it out in your area. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-21-2006, 10:17 PM
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I knew i seen one of these at a swap meet here look at this

http://www.accessiblesystems.com/etfiles/et02.php


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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2006, 05:43 PM
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rotissierie

Post those pics!!! I saw the commercial ones at GOODGUYS in Charlotte, and they're kinda pricey.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:05 PM
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i built this one for my media blasting business. you can turn a car body with one hand.
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:00 AM
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How did you do the crank?
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:11 AM
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thats an air blower stuck in the end. i set the bodies on and then adjust it with my hoist and engine lift. once adjusted i drill a hole for a pin. each bodies is different. it's set up for vettes, tri 5's and early chevy pu so far. a jack would be ruined by all the blasting dust. i turn them 90 degrees and have a couple of inches of floor clearance.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2006, 08:43 PM
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Check this website for information
http://www.whirlyjig.com/
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Old 02-11-2006, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35 buick40
This is a poor mans method. It works pretty well. Two people can easily tip it. I use an engine hoist to catch and lower it when tipping it back to its wheels.
Buick40, What's keeping your setup from rolling all ther way over?

Accessible Systems http://www.accessiblesystems.com/etfiles/et02.php is the only "tilter" (not the full rotisserie) I can find on the internet. They mention a competitor but who? I know I have seen a company with a tilter at Carlisle and Hershey that utilizes a basic elecrtic drill to rotate the car onto it's side, but can't find it anywahere. Anybody know what/who I am talking about.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2006, 08:00 AM
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I started by building a cart to roll the body around on. I then added a bar parrellel to the body that sticks out past the body about 4". To flip it I use my engine hoist. I hook the boom to one side of the cart near the rear door and lift one side. When it gets about 2 ft high the parellel bar on the opposite side hits the concrete. This prevents the wheels from rolling and acts as a pivot point and prevents the body from contacting the floor. I then get on the other side and have someone else continue raising the car until it breaks center. I then guide it down onto a trash bag full of rags that I set the roof rail onto. It works pretty well. The cart can be removed by supporting the body on wood blocks and using the engine hoist to support the cart while removing the bolts.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2006, 02:20 PM
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Call me old skool, but I freakin HATED working on a rotisserie. Takes up floor space, all the panel work was on a platform since the car (68 GTX conv) was so high up. I don't trust them for panel alignment at all. That stress has to go somehwere. If I was in the stripping buisness well OK. I'm not so I don't need it. I'd sooner farm out that portion of the job than deal with it. That keeps guys like shine in buisness too. I guess it's a matter of priority. Hmmm $500 for a device to do my floor or pay to have it stripped. Whada ya say shine? How much to strip a complete body? Avg price. If I had it stripped then doing floor repairs are cake anyways. Just my semi warped .02
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2006, 02:40 PM
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mine is built to hold vettes mainly. no flex what so ever. thats why i built a cradle. the ones tha attach at each end of the body i dont trust. too much stress on the body. anywhere from 600 to 2k for stripping a body. vettes are slow going and take a lot of hrs. i love working on mine. i can turn the body on it's side to work on it or lower it down to do the sides. beats hell out of laying on cold concrete getting crap in your face
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Old 02-04-2007, 05:36 PM
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Tilter information

Quote:
Originally Posted by ndustrl
Buick40, What's keeping your setup from rolling all ther way over? Accessible Systems http://www.accessiblesystems.com/etfiles/et02.php is the only "tilter" (not the full rotisserie) I can find on the internet. They mention a competitor but who? I know I have seen a company with a tilter at Carlisle and Hershey that utilizes a basic elecrtic drill to rotate the car onto it's side, but can't find it anywahere. Anybody know what/who I am talking about.
I think you are talking about the one at this site http://www.liqui-technik.com/kipp1_e.html from what I have seen this one works well... puts alot of stress on the suspension components, but not anything terrible... Unless your suspension is badly worn...

Drag
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2007, 06:53 AM
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Hi guys,
From what i've read and heard is that these rotisseries are the bees knees.
My father in law has made up one for my 1963 1/2 Ford Galaxie that i have stripped back and am going to take the body off the frame to get it sand blasted.
What i need to know is if anyone has any tips, do's, don't's, how to realign the body when you put it back on etc. A complete step by step guide with photo's would be good, even better if it is a Galaxie!!!
I also need to know if you should leave the doors on the fastback or take them off( the glass is still in the car) for strength etc.
i imported the car last year(2006) in August and it has alot of surface rust on the chassis and some holes in the trunk and some rusted beams. So when i got the car into NEW ZEALAND, i was a bit pissed off that it had more rust in it than i was lead to believe!!!
The rest of the car is mint and looks great but the laws in my country are quite tough on rust and i have to get it all fixed before i can get it on the road here.
Like i said any help would awesome
Cheers

Antz.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2007, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
I knew i seen one of these at a swap meet here look at this

http://www.accessiblesystems.com/etfiles/et02.php

I'm looking at this one with a lot of interest, but I have one concern. Take a close look at pictures 3, 4, & 5 on the page Rob linked (click the thumbnail for the bigger pic.) Is anyone else concerned with how much the vertical jack is flexing/bending while it's under load? I like the system, but if I buy one I think I'll go with the engine hoist version myself. Not only is it $700 cheaper, plus shipping, but that's one less thing to worry about. I have an engine hoist, but if I didn't, I know the $700 I would save on the system would pay for at least 2 of them.

So what do you think? Is that amount of flex in the jack something to be concerned about, or am I just overly cautious (paranoid?)
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