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Old 08-02-2005, 08:35 AM
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time between coats of clear??

is there a genreal rule of thumb for time between coats of clear??
i'm not shooting cars but rather some large custom painted pinstriped panels.
i'm using virtus (formerly tip top) MS clear (2:1)
for the small stuff i've been doing, i've been laying 2 tack coats with 10 minutes in between and spraying the wet coats when the previous coat tacks to stringy (usually about 10 minutes when its warm in the garage).

this project is kinda critical as i'm shooting 'flake, which means MANY coats of clear and so time is of the essence...

any guidance would be appreciated.
thanks.
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:41 AM
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Your probably OK, but not knowing the spec sheet for the product you are using, I'm assuming.

Vince
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:57 AM
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i dont have a spec sheet and i dont know how to read all the symbols on the back of the can...
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Old 08-02-2005, 11:38 AM
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Most people on this site recommend not spraying a tack coat
for urethane clears, I haven't noticed much difference either
way. But I can say waiting longer between coats has been the
biggest single improvement I've had in years.
Wait a little longer than you normally would and you'll have less
shrinkage and less problems related to solvent pop and all the other
horrible things that can go wrong. Of course how long is really
a relevant thing. The thickness of your spray coat, hardener speed and
reducer speed are just a few of the to many variables that can
affect the time. I let my clear dry completely to touch, no longer any
sticky to feel and then a few more minutes.
Try it and I'll bet you get a better finish that holds when dry.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:57 PM
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15 minutes...(longer is ok)
..
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.
.
.
.


get a timer....
.
.
..
wait for it to go "ding"
.
.
.
.
.
.
15 minutes...
.
.
.
.
you'll see....
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:34 PM
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You MUST get a tech sheet as there is no one answer to this question.
Depending how the clear is made, if first coat is stringy it may be ready for the second coat.
Some clears the first coat must be dry to the light touch before second is applied.
Some clears waiting to long the clear will reach a point of sensitivity and problems will arise.

Rule of thumb you may be OK to say 10-15 minutes between coats but now heat and humidity will play a big factor with what clear your using and what speed activator and the temperature and humidity will change everything.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:56 PM
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Use the same clear everytime...

70 degrees...

Use only top shelf clears ...

Ch*** clears don't save anything they cause problems and actually cost more (even in the short run,pun intended)


1 coat = 2 passes right?


15 minutes..

Last edited by milo; 08-02-2005 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:33 PM
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well as it were, i dont read italian so a spec sheet wouldnt do me any good as it is...

like i said these are only little panels..not show cars.
thanks for the input thus far...

15 minutes.
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:00 PM
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clear coats

having sprayed over flake before (especially heavy flake) I can tell you that you will need to stop at about 3-4 coats and wet sand again with about 600-800 then apply your final 2 coats. You will have better luck if you want a smooth finish. With low VOC clears you want to expand your dry time between coats and not use a real fast hardener. By giving your coats more time to flash you are allowing the solvents to escape and will have less die back and solvent pop problems.
Chris
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:19 PM
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Chris that true,
Did you see American hotrod the green Chevy last night.

They would be a 2.1 voc rule and the second coat of clear Fried on the top left corner of the deck lid and quarter. Of course Dewayne was saying could be how sprayed but bottom line is was sensitivity in the first coat of clear that caused the second to do it.
He either waited to long or he was using to fast an activator and it sensitized in that spot before he got the second coat on.

I would suspect the way they rush everything it was 85 degrees and he was using fast activator.

This guy is suppose to be a pro?
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Old 08-02-2005, 07:34 PM
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www.coastairbrush.com is a distributor for that clear. go on their sire and get the #. give them a call, i'm sure they can better advise you on the details of the clear you are using.
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
Chris that true,
Did you see American hotrod the green Chevy last night.

They would be a 2.1 voc rule and the second coat of clear Fried on the top left corner of the deck lid and quarter. Of course Dewayne was saying could be how sprayed but bottom line is was sensitivity in the first coat of clear that caused the second to do it.
He either waited to long or he was using to fast an activator and it sensitized in that spot before he got the second coat on.

I would suspect the way they rush everything it was 85 degrees and he was using fast activator.

This guy is suppose to be a pro?
I've had that happen using a fast hardener, the clear wrinkled with only a 20 minute flash time- what a fricken mess on black no less! Bottom line IMO is use the slowest hardener and reducer you can get away with and spray the next coat when the clear no longer strings with a finger test, stop at three coats, sand and apply more clear later if needed. Once that recoat window starts closing be careful. Using slower hardeners and reducers actually speed up the total curing process. I talked to a PPG rep recently and he said he's seen some lamination problems when the flash times were extended to long, he also said the basic rule when the clear no longer strings is the best time for applying the next coat (probably 15 minutes for the stuff Milo sprays? ).
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:34 AM
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Heres a pic of a project I got going today speaking of clear..
This one calls for enough clear to 1/2 bury a decal as they do in the factory. It'll get 2 or 3 coats of PPG's DCd35 Clear depending how it looks as it progresses. Hopes are it may help someone who needs that nuge of yes you can do it too...First a look at a different bike to vector exactly where the transfer goes. I use
string that can be reattached to taped registration marks. The string it'self also has little red pen marks to help keep it true.
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Last edited by milo; 08-03-2005 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:26 AM
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These side covers were painted at the begining of July but have been on the bike for a while waiting for stickers.
http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showpos...6&postcount=58

There was some road dirt and glaze that needs to be removed so first windex is used to clean the field for the sticker.
Then a few drops of dish soap to let the sticker move to postion
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Last edited by milo; 08-03-2005 at 02:32 AM.
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:33 AM
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Once in place the sticker gets again sprayed so the rubber will slide nice
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Last edited by milo; 08-03-2005 at 03:39 AM.
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