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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2008, 11:26 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
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I always am ready to pull the oil pan to clean it out, or replace the gasket, when doing a timing chain and gears. I hate leaks. Besides if it did not have any leaks when it came in, and I tried to flat rate it and it leaked going out. I am then the bad guy and I would have to fix it for free.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2008, 09:34 AM
"70" Cougar's Avatar
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Wow ok sweet something another possibility! so to check this i keep track of where the distributer is . then pull cap off pull dist. check condition of it . If i the shear pin has slipped or fallen out will the bottom come out with the top(sorry for the lack of appro. terminology) does the pin allow the top to separate from the shaft? I have no idea but man o man would this be an easier fix haha.

thanks muchly again
bill C
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2008, 10:59 AM
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Get in, sit down, hang on

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Wise words indeed. Reminds me of "I brought my car in for brakes last week, and now the transmission is slipping. What did you do!!!???"

The roll pin retains the drive gear only. There is another collar and pin that retains the shaft to the distributor housing.

First-hand "Meat-head" experience talking now...

If you find that roll pin to be missing or damaged, be sure to use the correct one (Ford P/N 67555-S I think ... cripes, how does a guy remember that crap?)

I remember asking myself ... "Why did that pin shear?" the first time, but just went ahead and replaced it. The car ran fine for a few days, and then the same thing happened.
"Well! I'll fix this!" I said, and put in a SOLID pin.
I fired it up, gave it a couple of blips on the throttle ... and heard a sickening "snap" sound and the engine died instantly.
My heart sunk as I yanked the distributor out again ... and found the cam gear and the distributor drive gear BOTH missing a few teeth.

I ended up pulling the engine, taking it down to the machine shop for a thorugh cleaning and inspection. The prognosis was that my "cheaping out" and not replacing the oil-pump pickup screen ... just "cleaning it up" instead (translation ... "loosening up the crud") resulted in a peice of that aforementioned crud getting sucked up and jamming the gears (rotors) inside the oil pump! You could see how it had been dragging around in the gears ... eventually galling them up.

Moral of the story (lesson learned, actually) :
I shouldn't have been a "Cheap Charlie" ... and that I shouldn't always do my own thinking. Shear pins shear for a reason. Please don't make the same mistake that I did.

Oh hey ... waitaminute ... is this the 351M "boat anchor" that we are talking about in that 460 thread?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2008, 02:25 AM
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HAHA sure is one in the same. but.. ALL I HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM ! AND YES IT WAS are you ready for this. Plugs . wow darn plugs.. i think back to why plugs foul... hmmm i remember a " friend" of mine saying hey let me tweak your carb come on man i am a mechanic just let me have a look. no it works fine thanks thow. dude i am a mechanic ... i know what i'm doing ! no it works fine what you think i cant make it work better.. what ever man. so he " tune's " the carb via the mixture screws and yes all the way in and out 2.5 turns...( i watched closely ) and said there.... see ( i noticed nothing ) i was like what ever and let it go. you should have see the carbon build up on these plugs WORST I'VE EVER SEEN ! ALMOST A 16th of it . i was chipping it off with my thumb nail... he said wow its all flooded smells like gas better start with cleaning the plugs up. YOU THINK?! WHAT A MORON. NEVER AGAIN WILL I LET HIM NEAR MY RIG'S EVER. I cleaned them up on a wire wheel and put them back in. no gas turned key up she fired perfect. i just couldn't understand the run fine run like crap not run and then run like crap. Now i know it was too much carbon (running poor) then not running( flooded soaked plugs).

Thanks for all the help and time i really appreciate it. best advice... keep thinking! talk to you later
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