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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2002, 06:28 AM
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Without a high dollar piece of equipment you'd probably never know if it's the cam that's off. If you look at all the components that link the position of the piston and the position of a cam lobe the tolerance stackup is big. All you're checking are the final positions. If it's off (and I've seen cams set straight up as far as 9 degrees off) then which component is to blame? The crankshaft keyway, the crankshaft journal, the timing chain, the upper or lower gear in the timing set, the cam itself, the drive pin or key in the cam (etc.) All the parts need to be somewhat close and usually are, but not always, more and more parts are being made overseas, some of which are pretty scarey.

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Old 09-06-2002, 08:39 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by MHenricks:
<strong>Would you spend the time to degree the timing on a street motor that is driven daily. Is this process more for all out racing?</strong><hr></blockquote>
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Old 09-07-2002, 05:14 PM
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I am running a comp cam 305H with .525 lift and it has to be degreed.Anything over .500 lift should go under the wheel.Comp cams has a video that will show you how to do this or don't understand how are why.
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Old 09-08-2002, 04:31 AM
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a simple and effective way to get your cam timing set without a degree wheel is (with the heads on), use a compression gauge and crank it over enough to get a reading at the different settings and the one that gives you the highest reading is the one you want. This applies to street cars that you want to work most effeciently, high rpm race engines or low rpm pulling motors may need some trial and error.
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