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I really understand the budget thing, and the hesitancy to spend more money. But I'm afraid if you have all the issues you've discovered so ffar, and don't head in the right direction, then you'll just be tossing more time and money into something that may bot hold together.
Dings in the top of cast pistons will lead to cracks or bblown pistons later if not addressed. Assembling the engine without addressing everything will possibly leave you stranded, and if it blows it might be beyond repair. If you have it hot tanked, magnifluxed and properly built it will be a relaible engine. If it wont pass the hot tank and magnafluxing, then you'll know it's no good before you go any farther. Around my area a hot tank and magnaflux on an engine is under $100. A complete rebuild of a SBC will run in the $1300 range, and a little more if you start going outside of stock type rebuild. If it doesn't need boring, then the price goes down, and if the pistons weren't hurt it goes down even more. |
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Ok I will look into some of the stuff you have posted today. See what it leads too. One more question. What would be a good cam to run in it I had the other one inspected cam isn't to to bad but all the lifters have groves in them from sitting so I'm just going to get a cam kit. I would like to run something a little more then stock, to give it a little more of a lumpy idle if I could.
Any Suggestions on which one I could use? I would like to check into it today aswell so while the motor is away getting cleaned up I can get all the parts rounded up so when it comes back I can start putting it back together. |
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OK dropped off the motor today. I can pick it up tomorrow afternoon. They are doing all the tests needed and i have my fingers crossed. He said he will let me know tomorrow if it needed to be bored or not so here's the next million dollar questions.
What cam can I run stock that will give it a little more Ummph? What cam should I run bored out if it comes down to it? any help will be great thanks Ed |
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Stock bore or over bore wont change the cam choice. WWhat you want depends on what you'll use the truck for. A little more "umph" can be a decent hydraulic with around .450-460 lift, and 265-275 degrees duration, and try to get a good LSA of 110-112 degrees.
Here's one at Summit that's a good cam for low to mid range power: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K00042/ |
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Ok so When I go to the parts store will I be asking to get a camshaft with atleast 110 LSA to 112 Lsa? should they know? Sorry about the questions I just want to make sure they know what I want/Need for my application.
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Yes, but LSA (lobe separation angle) is only one part of it. Can't just walk in and tell them you want that LSA and not tell them anything about lifft and duration. Plus your local parts store will charge you twice what most internet sales like JEG's, Summit, etc. will charge.
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