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Old 02-26-2012, 07:04 PM
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Timing chain Issue

Well today I decided on tearing down the 400 and replacing all the seals and gaskets because it has sat for a few years. Got the exhuast manifold off tappit pans, then took off the 2bbl intake. I noticed little metal shavings that looked like aluminum. Im not sure if it was but anyways. I finished taking off the heads and was getting ready to pop out the lifters..... I roled over the motor and nothing happend.... I was like WTF so I peaked in the holes at the front of the motor and blam damn timing gear wasnt going around. So I am assuming it is broke. WHat my question is. Do I have to time the cam to TDC? I have never done a timing set so I am not familiar with it. Anyways Im going to put in a gear drive system I think depending on How expensive they are and how difficult they are to install.


Any tips on this and advice on the gear drive system will be appreciated

Thanks

Ed

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Old 02-26-2012, 07:24 PM
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Can't help with the gear drive, sorry.
Back in the day, the factory timing set had a nylon coated cam gear, the teeth are likely in the oil pan. It wouldn't hurt to check the push rods if you will reuse them, good possibility there was some valve to piston contact resulting in bent push rods when it quit running.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:56 PM
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1966 f100.....what the hell are you talking about...."fart nuts" you've got 14 posts and this is how you reply to a member????? Hopefully this will get you banned, we don't need clowns likeyou around here.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:00 PM
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Trade the gear drive for a double roller chain setup and correctly install it...you will not have any more problems.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327NUT
1966 f100.....what the hell are you talking about...."fart nuts" you've got 14 posts and this is how you reply to a member????? Hopefully this will get you banned, we don't need clowns likeyou around here.
LOL...I bet he has been hacked. He is making all kinds of odd posts. Hopefully a mod will see this and stop his tirade. Don't ban him yet; give him a chance
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:10 AM
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OK I will check the oil pan tomorrow I know there was plastic peices in the top end and you were right about the valve and piston contact there was obvious marks on the piston. So how would I go about checking the push rods to see if there no good?

Oh and I will stay away from the gears as you said and get a double roller set up for sure.

Thanks again for all the help
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
OK I will check the oil pan tomorrow I know there was plastic peices in the top end and you were right about the valve and piston contact there was obvious marks on the piston. So how would I go about checking the push rods to see if there no good?

Oh and I will stay away from the gears as you said and get a double roller set up for sure.

Thanks again for all the help
Often a visual check is enough to see a bent p-rod, but if they're just a little tweaked (which still means replacement), clean the p-rods and then roll them on a hard, flat surface like a pane of glass. If it's bent, you'll hear a tell-tail *tic*tic*tic* every revolution.

Use the "straight up" cam and crank timing marks, there's no need to advance or retard the cam phasing 90% of the time, and most cams that need it are set w/the advance already accounted for if you install it straight up.

When you install the timing set, the 6 o'clock cam gear/12 o'clock crank gear dot-to-dot alignment used to install the timing set puts #6 at TDC on the compression stroke. Often the mistake is made thinking that #1 is at TDC compression. #1 is at TDC along w/#6, just not on the compression stroke until the crank has been turned one more revolution, putting the cam gear mark at 12 o'clock and the crank gear also at 12 o'clock.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:11 AM
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With valve to piston contact you might have bent exhaust valves. With marks in the pistons I'd be concerned about their integrity also, and I'd probably change them out too. Not sure this isn't a candidate for a complete engine rebuild also. Those plastic parts are going to be in more places than just the pan. Smaller pieces are picked up by the oil pump and may be in the oil filter, and throughout the oil galleys. Needs a good flush too.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:41 AM
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ok got it tore apart..... IM having a mental break down with all this **** going on BLAH!!! for some reason i keep getting screwed. anyways how do I go about flushing the system to get all the plastic out? another question would it be worth changing out the cam shaft while if have it out? it looks a little worn to me on a few lobes but im not 100% sure. I know I dont want to just throw it away I allready have 500 invested in it

thanks for the input its appreciated.

Ed
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:50 AM
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I'd tear it down to the bare block, have it hot tanked, then start from there.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:02 AM
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If the cam is at all in question,have it looked at. It's so much easier to switch it out now.
Brad.....
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:15 PM
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I dont really want to tear it all down I dont really have the money to send it away and have it hot tanked etc. this is for my dayly driver and ive been down for a week now fartin around trying to get it figured out. Is there any other way that I could flush it myself?
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
Well today I decided on tearing down the 400 and replacing all the seals and gaskets because it has sat for a few years. Got the exhuast manifold off tappit pans, then took off the 2bbl intake. I noticed little metal shavings that looked like aluminum. Im not sure if it was but anyways. I finished taking off the heads and was getting ready to pop out the lifters..... I roled over the motor and nothing happend.... I was like WTF so I peaked in the holes at the front of the motor and blam damn timing gear wasnt going around. So I am assuming it is broke. WHat my question is. Do I have to time the cam to TDC? I have never done a timing set so I am not familiar with it. Anyways Im going to put in a gear drive system I think depending on How expensive they are and how difficult they are to install.


Any tips on this and advice on the gear drive system will be appreciated

Thanks

Ed
Who's 400 this has been a popular size in several brands? Not so sure about a gear drive system unless you're racing, it solves one problem and adds several new ones. A good solution for a street engine through a pretty good competition engine is a true roller chain and gear set. These run quiet and don't transmit crankshaft vibs into the cam which already has plenty of its own.

Bogie
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:11 PM
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the motor is a 1970-71 400 out of a 5 ton truck. I didnt get a specific truck but here is the number 3951511. The guy i got it from told me he didnt know what was wrong with it and he had gotten it to put in his 1971 transam that he ended up selling. So I got it and figured I was getting a good motor and it ended up more problems that I didnt need
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
the motor is a 1970-71 400 out of a 5 ton truck. I didnt get a specific truck but here is the number 3951511. The guy i got it from told me he didnt know what was wrong with it and he had gotten it to put in his 1971 transam that he ended up selling. So I got it and figured I was getting a good motor and it ended up more problems that I didnt need
So it is a SBC. Ford, Pontiac, Olds (two versions) and Mopar also made 400's.

Your c/n 511 is likely (but not absolutely) a 4-bolt. In the case of the SBC 400, this isn't necessarily a good thing, but unless you plan on hammering it hard it will work well enough for most street-type applications.

Do have it thoroughly checked over for cracks, flat decks and straight main saddles.
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