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Old 05-11-2010, 04:18 PM
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For the timing guru's

Ok so im nearing completion of my 355 build and wanted to get a handle of timing before I even think about firing it. My engine consists of:
Stock .030 over block
reconditioned rods, crank
mahle flat tops 6cc .025 in the hole
fel pro 1094 .015 shim gasket
bowtie phase 2 heads 63cc

cam dynamics 284, same grind as crane cams energizer 284
all accel hei ignition

My questions are what should i time this at and how exactly do I do it. Ive always kinda timed by ear but i really wanna dial this motor in. I read of people talking about total timing at 34-36 degrees, and i am completely lost on how this is figured when the marks on the pointer only show timing for the initial timing. I am a complete newb to timing so if anyone could give me run down on what i should time my motor at and exactly how the procedure is done, thanks!

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Old 05-11-2010, 05:23 PM
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You verify top dead center with your balancer mark and your pointer 0 on your timing tab, then I buy the correct size timing tape for your balancer around 5 dollars and put this on your balancer. Then as you bring your engine rpm's up to usually 3,000 rpm's your total timing should be between 34-38 degrees total. Every engine is different based on combination, of the total timing amount.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:18 PM
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For best performance with that cam you will want to recurve your distributor.
The advance curve is not right as delivered.

36 is 1/10th the way around the balancer outer circumference.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:35 AM
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Thanks for the replies, f-bird so I'd want my advance to locked out before the powerband of my cam? Around 2,800..I'll do that and I usually just advance till it pings and back it off until it stops
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cunferferth
Thanks for the replies, f-bird so I'd want my advance to locked out before the powerband of my cam? Around 2,800..I'll do that and I usually just advance till it pings and back it off until it stops
Get a timing light sbc's rarely need more than 36deg. Excessive advance reduces power and busts motors.

I avoid super quick mechanical advance curves. The light spring tension required to get such a curve tends to be instable. I prefer a curve with more initial base timing, + a more stable moderate fast curve that peaks out around 3000-3400 rpm. Using medium/med-light advance springs. The bigger the cam the more inital idle timing. requires limiting the advance travel stop in the distributor.

Locked out is the wrong term. Locked out advance is different and is used for radical racey cammed motors that need a ton of idle advance to idle clean.

The Crane CD 284H-12 energizer cam will want around 22-24deg at idle and 34 to 36deg at max advance. (a 10-12deg mechanical advance curve)
Search my old posts on how to limit the mechanical advance curve to 10-12deg on a HEI. You cannot do this with just a bushing swap.
If you take the time to set up the distributor curve correctly and set the timing accuratly with a timing light it will scream.

then 10-12deg of vacuum advance at high cruise.

Get a 3000+ stall converter.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-12-2010 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the info!!
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