Wow.....Really? I wouldnt think that loose rods/mains would cause such a inconsistancy in your timing. Not saying it cant happen in an extreme application, but...Oil pressure? Noise flucuate with RPM? Hmm...

You said "thinking the guy sold me some crap"...meaning? Machine work? Parts?

Dist. cap terminal x-fire or loose/broken rotor could cause the timing jump, also.

I'm not surprised at the fluctuation, loose as that timing chain is. Double vision was on to it.

Hey Man, I noticed you said you had just adjusted the valves, then the knock surfaced. You might have a torn up camshaft. It happens more often these days, with oil formulation changes and aggressive lobe designs. The bad lobe(s) also sound very internal to the engine and could cause the timing to jump around. If I'm correct, please don't shoot the messenger! olnolan

Yeah I was just thinking about the cam today. Because I drove the car about 90 miles to a show and still had some slight rattle in the valves but I had no knock at that time and still did not have a knock until I went in to tighten up the rattle in the rockers. I instantly heard the knock when I took the rattle out of the rockers and I first thought maybe a bad lifter, but they were all oiling some more then others. I also noticed a slight rattle that comes and goes in the 3 to 5 cylinder wanna say 5. I did start to think maybe the cam or lifters, and I am starting to lean that way. But I have noticed at the initial start up I dont have a knock, but when the engine warms up I start to hear it? Yeah coletrane i have thought about that as well doesnt seem like a bearing or pin could cause the jump on the timing mark, I have great oil pressure at idle about 30 and under load about 75 to 80. The car also has no miss with the knock and jump, a little bit of a shudder when held at 2000 but not real noticeable but it is a smooth idle no misfire at all. I think I am going to pull the cam and lifters.

The only thing I believe that "knock's" is a cracked or broken piston, wrist pin, or excessive rod bearing clearance. If I were you, I would pull the whole engine.

Ive heard/seen a feller pull & dismantle his freshly rebuilt SBC due to a knock..sounded obvious.. like rods/mains. Neither... mechanical fuel pump push rod. Engine noises can be deceiving, best tool is experience & patience...

[QUOTE=mechanical fuel pump push rod. Engine noises can be deceiving, best tool is experience & patience...[/QUOTE]

What was wrong with the mecanical fuel pump push rod?

Apparently he re-used an old worn pushrod from another engine and the length was too short allowing a bit of slack between cam lobe/rod/pump actuator arm.....it made some racket. IMO it sounded like a rod/main knock at idle and almost like piston skirt slap/slop above idle... Fortunatly he pulled engine, removed pan, mic'd/plasti-gauged all clearances on rotating assembly before completly dis-assembling entire engine. Stumbled on the fuel pump scenario along the way..

Installed a new pushrod from NAPA & no knock.

Not saying that's what OP's problem is, just another option to identifying a knock/noise......

[QUOTE= he re-used an old worn pushrod from another engine and the length was too short......[/QUOTE]


Hate it when that happen's. oop's!

Maybe you ought to check the torque converter bolts before pulling the cam. Might save some forehead damage! Been there, done that!
I forgot about that knock. That's what happen's in old age.

Ok went to the guy that did the machine work and sold me the alum heads. I explained what was going on and the setup I used. When I told him about the harland sharpe roller rockers and stock length push rods. He told me to use .100th longer rods so I am going to give it a try.