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It blew me away I'll tell you that! I thought I was slick with a piece of sandpaper stuck to a metal beam near my box. But the sand paper woudl put little burrs that you would have to peel off. The cardboard works like magic! It leaves the edge smmmmmooooooothhhhh.
Brian |
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Hey Brian, how bout giving some credit where credit's due??
LOLhttp://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15851 Last edited by baddbob; 12-11-2008 at 10:20 PM. |
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Thanks Brian,
I've been using sandpaper...but will be trying out the carboard trick today. This might be straying away from you video...but have you ever seen a spreader that prevented "end lines"? No matter how clean I keep my spreader, I still can't prevent creating lines as I pull the spreader through the filler and it flows out and off each end of the spreader or the spreader digs into the freshly laid filler right next to it. This is a particular challenge when trying to lay down a nice final skim coat.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod. |
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If your spreader is wider then the area,it won't do it....
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Brian |
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spreaders
It's like tapeing and "mudding" sheetrock or doing plaster work. some of my Bondo tools are rounded on the corners,, and sometimes I use a small putty knife to but a daub in the center of the bondo tool so when you start spreading it it won't squish out the ends.
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If the spreader has a SLIGHT concave shape, I hold the spreader with my thumb up in the center "tuning" the shape as I go. I can keep the ends up slightly which helps. Also, the rounding of the edges as shown helps. Brian |
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To remove the lines I use a trick I learned after drywall taping for years.
I will lay down my filler for even coverage/shape. Then I will make some final pass swipes, if you hold the spreader in a manner to lift the trailing edge slightly as you are making overlapping swipes you can make your way across an area with out any edge lines. I usually only do this when I am using a skim coat with Icing/putty etc not with reg filler as this is usually cut down rapidly with 36 or cheese grater. Takes some practice to learn the right pressure/motion. Hope this makes sense, hard to describe. chas |
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__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod. |
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cboy,basically enough pressure to knock down the ridge,not enough to respread what you already laid down.Problem is usually the glaze or filler is starting to harden and then it's a waste of time or a chunk comes loose and screws it up even worse.
And yeah, Bob was the first person to clue me in on the cardboard trick and that was several years back. With "bondo" fillers,I wipe off as much as possiable and then use lacquer thinner and a rag to clean the rest off. With glaze's,I let it cure and then you can bow the spreader some and most will just pop off and then use the lacquer thinner to finish cleaning it off. |
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The trick to useing sandpaper is useing a fine grit,
I use 1000 grit by hand to just smooth the edges after cleaning.
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cboy, basically you are lifting one side of the spreader as you go to keep a ridge from forming. You start by applying your putty, then starting on the right making vertical swipes with the right edge lifted slightly leaving a ridge free pass, the left side will leave a ridge/line, but your next pass will smooth this as you make your way across the section you are working on. You will have to move fast because once it starts to drag.....
This is easier to do with joint compound, that is how I learned to do this. Oh, I also prefer the metal applicators for most of the putty work I do. Maybe because of my drywall taping experience? Brian, Im going to try that cardboard trick, I hate them fuzzy's chas |
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__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod. |
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