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-   -   Tip of the day #16 (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-16-a-71240.html)

BondoKing 10-01-2005 08:32 PM

Tip of the day #16
 
When color sanding a panel use different directions for different paper grits..

For example: Sand vertical with 1000, then when you sand with 1500 or 2000 sand horizontally... This will aid you in "seeing" if you lower grit scratches are being removed...

Also after using 2000 and you think everything is good to go, using the 4000 pad on a DA as our Jclark does really shows up any scratches that you may have missed!!! It ( 4000 grit pad) will give a low gloss luster and remove the 2000 marks, but if there is anything else still left behind it will show them up like a highlight...

Finally let the car,truck/panel... whatever it is set in the sun after you sand it for at least a few hours.. then pull it back in and buff it after it has cooled to room temp... Our own Expert Resident Barry Kives recommends this and I have tried it and it works great... It really does improve buffing and the final product :thumbup: If you have the time let it set for a day and buff the next day

If you are doing a hot rod ,show car or dark color this is a great help!!

Ahhh its good to be back!!!

Matthew

BarryK 10-01-2005 08:36 PM

This made me think of something.
They make wet sanding paper up to 20,000 grit and every grit up to that grit.

In some industries they start with 1000 and keep going finer until the part has full gloss.

Why would this not work on paint?
I'm sure 3M has thought of this?

BondoKing 10-01-2005 08:41 PM

Maybe we should have a "Test" of this and see what happens....

Matthew

kenseth17 10-01-2005 09:01 PM

After sanding filler and bodywork areas,jambs, whatever, blocksandng primer, maybe sanding base, and wetsanding with 1500 or whatever you want me to keep stepping down on sandpaper till I get to 20,000 grit. By the time you get to buffing after painting your pretty sick of sanding. I think I'll live with what will buff out for now, expecially since I wetsand clear by hand at this time, not having a finishing da. :)

shoddy_f-body 10-01-2005 09:01 PM

where do you get 3000 or 4000?

MARTINSR 10-01-2005 09:06 PM

Barry, the last lacquer job I did the guy at the paint store dug into this private stash and handed me a couple of sheets of 3M 15,000 grit. I was told it was used in the air craft industry to repair plastic windows. This was about 10 years ago so all we had was 2000 in the auto industry. Anyway, I painted this 31 Model A (it was only a repair involving a few panels on a car I had painted about 15 years previous) and cut it with 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and then this 15,000. HOLY SCHMOLY GUACAMOLE! First of all it hardly needed to be polished after the 15,000. But when it was polished it shined like a mirror RIGHT NOW.

I looked into getting some but kept on coming up with dead ends. I finally just gave up. Do you have any buddies in the aircraft industry? :)

Brian

Riverman 10-02-2005 12:31 AM

Brian,

I live about 10 miles from 3M outside of St. Paul. I also work with the 3M cam center from time to time on finishing projects for the metal industries (mirror stainless, medical device etc) I will ask about this when on the next invite I get there. I buy 6 figures of product, so they treat me well and give all kinds of test stuff. Infact it can get annoying once in awhile. If anyone remebers, I had a post where I used a 7" brown scotchbrite to strip paint on an entire car. Sounds nuts, but finish was right where it needed to be for a quick DA and prime and it was fast. Heat was almost non existent. Freebies from 3M. Like I said, I will ask around.


Ron

P.S. I know they have product down to 4 micron=mirror

adtkart 10-02-2005 05:50 AM

I have only been able to find 2500 wet or dry paper at the paint suppliers around here. They do have the "Hook-IT 2" disks for the DA in 3000. You need a special disk for the DA to use them. For the ones that have never seen them, they are great. They are foam pads, and to be used with water. They will give you a smooth finish for buffing. I couldn't immagine going to a 20,000. That would be some awfull smooth paper. Maybe writing paper without lines would work? LOL

BarryK 10-02-2005 06:04 AM

I use the Mirka 2000 and 4000 grit sponge pads sometimes before buffing.

After the 4000 all you do is touch it with a buffer and your done.

With the DA and the 4000, sometime i will dip in water and go over a deck lid non stop for 10 minutes and you can actually start to see the shine start to show up.

mrcleanr6 10-02-2005 07:22 AM

i have seen 3m paper recently rated to .5 microns. not sure what grit that converts to but i know 9 is around 2000 so .5 must be up there. they use that stuff in splicing fiber optic cable. it was crazy, felt like a baby's a@@. :)

Bee4Me 10-02-2005 09:42 AM

I use a spray bottle mist for my Trizac 3000 pad as you want it a little wet for "lube" if you will but NOT drenched like regular wet sanding.

I could dig some baby ***** finish on my clear. :thumbup:

I bet that type paper(?) isn't cheap either.

adtkart 10-02-2005 07:26 PM

The pads are great for using just before buffing. They are useless for getting out any trash from the paint, or orange peel, as they just go over it. You must do all of the other sanding first, but they do the last part so easilly.

Aaron

BondoKing 10-02-2005 08:02 PM

Wow this thread went from directional sanding to eliminate previous scratches, to high grit sand paper and its uses :D Hijacked ;)

Matthew

baddbob 10-03-2005 07:49 AM

But Hijacked in a good way! 20,000 grit OhMyGod! If anyone researches these finer grits and availability please post any info. Bob

jcclark 10-03-2005 08:36 AM

Welcome back Burger King, I mean Bondqueen, or Bondoking :pimp:
I can't imagine the time it would take with those fine grits if
done by hand, I have some 3m 3000 grit and it's very time
consuming to hand sand a spot with it.
I'll stay with a buffer.


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