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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2012, 11:30 AM
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true story, my neighbor has a 65 catalina 2+2 and was "restoring" it. i came over one day and he had the rear springs out, replacing with another set of old used springs. i mentioned he should put some paint on them at least, then went back to my shop for a while. he called me over later to show me his work, he painted the coils red, ok but he painted them upside down so when he installed them, you could see the old dirty tops of the coils faded to fire red...

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Awesome stuff guys!

Brian
I'll second that ... good little thread ,Brian
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nine4gmc
true story, my neighbor has a 65 catalina 2+2 and was "restoring" it. i came over one day and he had the rear springs out, replacing with another set of old used springs. i mentioned he should put some paint on them at least, then went back to my shop for a while. he called me over later to show me his work, he painted the coils red, ok but he painted them upside down so when he installed them, you could see the old dirty tops of the coils faded to fire red...

I think the absolute hardest thing I've ever painted would have to be roll bars when they are already installed in a race car...any kind of tube is tough though....
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nine4gmc
true story, my neighbor has a 65 catalina 2+2 and was "restoring" it. i came over one day and he had the rear springs out, replacing with another set of old used springs. i mentioned he should put some paint on them at least, then went back to my shop for a while. he called me over later to show me his work, he painted the coils red, ok but he painted them upside down so when he installed them, you could see the old dirty tops of the coils faded to fire red...

Very believable! I see it all the time with pros. I would get a hood and hinges from the paint dept and the hinge had bare primer all on the front where you see it and the mounting points where it is bolted down were covered perfectly with shiny paint.

Brian
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Lizer, by the way the trick I have used for painting those is to jamb the back sides and the end of the quarters and fenders where they bolt. You then bolt the parts on with spacers over the studs holding them off the body a little. Of course this only matters if you are shooting it a metallic color where you need perfect application to ensure the same color. You can really stick yourself painting those pieces metallic colors because you spray something like that completely different (as you just learned with the primer) than you would spraying the fenders and quarters. So with them bolted there they end up the exact color without even trying. And the edges are all nicely painted because they are held off with the spacers.

Brian
Perfect advice! That was one of the things I was going to ask on here some day, eventually. I will be painting the car a blue metallic (woefully), and wanted all the parts together but not tightly so as to prevent paint bridging. Wasn't really sure what to use for spacers.

Regarding things like headlight buckets, I'm still not sure what to do for that gap because those buckets are really a bear to get on if the fender is on the car and I was hoping to not have to take the fenders off once the car was painted. Sure scratches up a lot of things when I take them on and off.

I use rebar wire for hanging parts. Strong but thin and easy to work, and you can get a big spool at the home store for $5 give or take.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:15 PM
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I simply use washers to space them out. I have shot a few of those Mustangs and don't remember the fender extensions being difficult at all to remove once the fender is all bolted on.

Brian
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snydski
Sometimes it takes a different perspective to solve problems. Looks like your paint rack is chest high and very comfortable . On a technical application note; I like to hit everything with a little denatured alcohol first, get rid of moisture and it acts like a bonding agent which helps prevent fish eyes . I 've had trouble with small parts that tend get greased. It solved the problem and it's cheap .
I know that acetone removes moisture very well and I wipe parts down with naphtha. Hardware stores carry both.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:44 AM
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Wax and grease remover isn't expensive and its formulated just for this type of work,thats why the pros use it.
Granted ,its mostly alcohol and straight alcohol WILL work but it evaporates too quickly and needs a few more ingredients to work properly..Sure ,its possible to make your own and I;ve done it in the past but when your doing this stuff every day its just not worth it ,you dont save that much and your taking a chance ,If you want to save some money save the dollars and the pennies will take care of themselves..save dollars by reducing the amount of labor it takes to do the same job...Good quality W&G remover is a time saver.therefore worth every penny....
One more time.....apply with a dripping wet paper shop towel and wipe off before it evaporates....If your fast you can do half a hood max..but 2'x2' is about the norm (half a door)

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2012, 07:50 AM
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Yep, nothing but REAL automotive paint products for me.

The savings just isn't enough for me to take the chance with anything less.

Brian
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2012, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Yep, nothing but REAL automotive paint products for me.

The savings just isn't enough for me to take the chance with anything less.

Brian
My mistake I thought we we were painting brackets not 24 coats of candy apple red on a vehicle. So we should buy a $100,000 paint booth too to make sure that our brackets are perfect. Nail polisher remover is 10 times more expensive than acetone because they rename it, it is still acetone. Naphtha is wax remover.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:16 AM
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Painting small parts

You can buy one of those cheap, I mean inexpensive plastic lazy Susans too. They last forever or until you drop it on a hard concrete floor.

When I'm painting small parts in my cellar, I put one of those sash fans in the window. They fit perfectly. The one I have has two fans. I can set them for exhaust or intake, or one for each.

Then I hang my parts on the water pipes. Works great as long as the parts are not too heavy!!



"If the engine starts, you're half way home."
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000jack
My mistake I thought we we were painting brackets not 24 coats of candy apple red on a vehicle. So we should buy a $100,000 paint booth too to make sure that our brackets are perfect. Nail polisher remover is 10 times more expensive than acetone because they rename it, it is still acetone. Naphtha is wax remover.
Are you saying you use finger nail polish remover to clean parts before paint ?Isn't nail polish paint. I dont think I'd want to use that ,myself...painting small stuff is a major PITA ,the last thing I wanna do is do it twice...
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:12 AM
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Try this...

I don't post here very often (if I ever have)...but when I seen this post...thought I'd share one of my tricks/tools.

Instead of using my "fender" folding racks , I purchased 4 Rolling Wardrobe racks from Wal-Mart. They are around $10 each and after painting items I can roll the rack around anywhere out of the way as the paint is drying.

These pictures don't show the rack very good....but as you can see they can be used for paint items as large as headers since they are over 6ft tall.

I too use wire hangers...but I also use 40lb fishing line with hooks tied at the ends (see pic) and make a slip knot on the top bar of the rack. This way I can slide my freshly painted part back and forth to paint all side and also lift it up to paint undersides!

Also.....when not using....these things can be taken back apart and stored in their box which takes up about a 3' X 2" X 4" space!!!!
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Are you saying you use finger nail polish remover to clean parts before paint ?Isn't nail polish paint. I dont think I'd want to use that ,myself...painting small stuff is a major PITA ,the last thing I wanna do is do it twice...
No I use naphtha which is wax and crime remover. I wrote " Nail polisher remover". You could use nail polish remover as it is acetone which evaporates water, but not that great for wax and crime. previous posting snydski wrote "..... I like to hit everything with a little denatured alcohol first, get rid of moisture ...." My point there was acetone is a lot cheaper than nail polish remover and also naphtha is basically what is in the fancy cans of prep-sol, prewipe or whatever it is called.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2012, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000jack
My mistake I thought we we were painting brackets not 24 coats of candy apple red on a vehicle. So we should buy a $100,000 paint booth too to make sure that our brackets are perfect. Nail polisher remover is 10 times more expensive than acetone because they rename it, it is still acetone. Naphtha is wax remover.

Touché, LOL, really, thanks for the knock in the head to wake me up this morning.


Hell, I had a number of bugs get stuck to one of these battery tray brackets and I didn't even clean them off when I bolted it to the car.

So I clearly get your point. The funny part is I didn't even wipe these parts at all! I sandblasted rust and failed paint off them, blew them off and hung and primed them.

But honestly, in my opinion that solvent is such a small part of the process, why cheap out. I mean it would be like trying to keep the price down on your house by buying a cheaper door bell button. I use only automotive grade paint products on my car, I just don't see a big deal, and I am one of the cheapest guys you are going to meet.

Brian
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