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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2008, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Youngster
Here's a link to a thread on tapering your rails;
Hey Ron,

Is there a secret to seeing the pictures on that link you provided? I'm seeing all the text...but no pics. Worst case, maybe you could upload a couple of those shots onto this thread.

Dewey

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2008, 12:28 PM
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If you are going to build the body,I would build the frame too.
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:16 PM
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Tips on hot rod frame building

Opps...Sorry don't know what happened there. There's too many pics to tell the story. Go to www.tbucketeers.com and click on the thread "tapered frame rails". You can read and oggle the pictures there.

Ron
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:22 PM
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Tips on hot rod frame building

Oh yeah... I screwed up when I posted the pictures. Long story. They are there, but they start on the second page.

Ron
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Old 06-15-2008, 09:37 PM
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Well I am still hammering out the details of what I want to do (no pun intended) I got a 283 block I am building so I figure it will be a good place to start is the engine.
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Old 06-16-2008, 06:55 AM
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I posted these earlier on another thread but in case you missed them...here's a mid 80's Nissan pickup frame under an open wheeled rod. If you are still considering that option.





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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2008, 06:46 PM
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re: Nissan truck frame for rod

I just happened to use a 88 Nissan truck frame. In my 35 Plymouth 392 Hemi project. It has a kick up in the rear, a taper in the front & a great looking front frame rail. The catch 22 on these, is hours of work cutting,hammering, chiseling & grinding the dreaded body mounts. There's a bunch of them. I was even able to use the cross-members.(In my current project) I grafted a toploader mount along the back of the front x member. I had to "notch" sections out the middle x member in order to accomodate the seat track movement. Next time, I'll probably drop the middle mount -n- fab a new one.
If you find one from up North, you may have to use a hole saw in a couple of places to blast out rust. Just save the round pc n weld it back up. There's a bunch of access holes you can look through. Just pull off the plastic caps & reinstall when your finished. I personally beefed this one up by forming a ladder type brace along the inside rails from x member to x member. If you don't mind a bit of extra work, I used a Jaguar (dana posi) independent rearend. I believe I narrowed the cage 1 3/8" pr side leaving everything else the same. It sits perfect this way w/all 4 coil overs, since narrowing the cage over an inch pr/side brings in the top shock angles........eliminating the Jag tow out appearance. The ride height is exactly what I was looking for That cage fits nicely in this frame.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2008, 06:49 PM
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I don't understand why you have to make this build so difficult...!! You didn't state the design till way latter in your post, but a 34 Ford will not fit a straight frame, and why would you want to build a straight one anyway. The ford body is pinched in the front, rounds out in the middle and comes together and kick's up and over the rear axle in the rear. The ford cars all had 112" wheelbases, and the trucks had 132" (I believe). There is no reason to get a s-10 or anything else, just buy yourself a set of new plain frame rails, American Stamping Group ASG makes them and I know many including Hortons Hot rods sells. If you can't purchase the truck frame rails, then you can easily buy the car ones and stretch them to the right wheel base.
Why do you have to have a channel to run break lines or anything else???? The answer is you don't, and if you go with the factory like frame rails, most including me would box them in anyway. Why?? strength and many modern front and rear suspensions need the frame boxed at the attachment points, so why not just box the whole thing?? I did.

Be very careful when you construct the frame, and if available, have the old frame there as a reference. Food for thought......All the attachment points that will not be accessible after boxing, make certain you plan ahead and weld in backing nuts, so latter down the road items like running boards, sheet metal and bumpers all bolt up like they should. if your not comfortable welding, then have someone else do the job for you. There is no reason to use plain straight tubing, unless your skills are such that you can't properly use anything else, it so, then you are alittle over your head with this project anyway.
Good luck
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Old 10-09-2008, 07:13 PM
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Well I ended up buying the El Camino I was looking at and I rebuilt the bed frame rails and have had a good insight into what goes into a frame and my next project is going to be building my own car from scratch.
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