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-   -   tire changer for home shop (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tire-changer-home-shop-220719.html)

vpd66 06-18-2012 10:41 PM

tire changer for home shop
 
I"m looking for a tire changer for my home shop. Right now I have a manual Harbor Freight post style. Years ago I used a Coats 40/40 style, but was wondering about the rim clamp style machines. What are the good ones? Which ones should I stay away from?? What wears out on them and what should I check out on a used one?

lt1silverhawk 06-19-2012 12:26 PM

Just out of curiosity, how do you like the Harbor Freight unit?

vpd66 06-19-2012 12:45 PM

Its not bad for the price. I 've had it for 5 years and have done plenty of tires with it. The tire iron that comes with it is not the greatest. Most of the times I use 2 tire spoons with it. It is a must to have it anchored to the concrete or it is useless.

joe_padavano 06-20-2012 05:42 AM

I bought a used rim clamp machine about five years ago for $300. It's an Italian brand - FAIP. The only problem is that the air valve for the bead breaker sticks. Otherwise, it works great.

keen 06-27-2012 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The only problem is that the air valve for the bead breaker sticks. Otherwise, it works great.

Funny, my Corghi Jolly has the same problem. I dont use it enough to have gotten around to fixing it...(2 dozen tires a year maybe?). Maybe it's an italian thing...

I picked up my Jolly and a nice hunter dsp9000 balancer for $700 last year after spending a few years looking for the right deal. Another $300 or so in weights, tools, lube, plastic guards for the duckhead bar and bead breaker shoe I suppose.

If you have an eye on a particular model, do some googling and try to find the operators manuals to familiarize yourself with the unit!

For home shop use, though - if it works, and you can get guards for it (which you can for the major brands, and -some- of the off brands) (unless you don't need them. I like'm.) go for it.

For the balancers, make sure that it's self calibrating (there should be a calibration weight that generally screws into the backing plate). Some machines require a "common 13-15 inch steel wheel" that you have to balance, then flip, then spin and rotate and tweak.... the ones with a calibration weight are much easier to do. Takes me about 15 seconds to do a quick check.

Also keep in mind that you'll need cones or other adapters that fit whatever wheels your working with - and those can get $$ if you have to find them new! There are a few variations in shaft size, so you have to find the parts that fit the shaft you have.

Don't buy anything that you can't test in place before you move it (unless it's pure bottom basement and you don't mind risking it or fixing it).

good luck!

moparmuscle1 07-12-2012 05:02 PM

I picked up a good used one for 100 bucks , it was a trade in at the snap-on dealer . It does have a little movement in the gearbox , but still works perfectly . ( you can rock the table top a little ) Mine is a coats model , I think it can handle a 24 inch rim . It also handles motorcycle rims without adapters , although some rims need the rotor pulled off on one side . I can get the parts to rebuild it , when I get the time .

Don


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