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Old 01-20-2008, 06:50 PM
SnottyAust's Avatar
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TKO 600 Hydraulic Throwout Bearing

Ive bought a TKO 600 pt.5009

For a throwout bearing ive bought the McLeod hydraulic bolt in throwout bearing. pt.MCL13635

Itll be a big job if this bearing doesnt last and its very pricey so i was wondering if anyone has any experience with these and ill be using this on the street with some limited track use. If its full of holes ill revert to the old system using a clutch fork etc.

Thanks everyone
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:06 AM
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I have been told that these hyd t-o bearings need to be cycled occaisionally.


So---If you have a car that is going to sit unattended for a month or more, the seals may dry out, and then----no clutch disengagement .

It is for this reason alone I chose to use OEM stuff on my 59.
(as I travel a lot---this car sits a lot)
I used a bell and slave from an 87 Chev p-u.-----downside to this is, haad to have the bearing retainer of my TKO machined for a spacer ring from McLeod, to take up the extra space of the big bore bellhousing.


Sorry, no personal experience with these, this is just what I have heard.

Bryan
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:10 PM
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Thanks Bryan
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:22 AM
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I know this is an old post but I thought I would add to this for anyone looking through here in the future for some advice. My opinion is: DO NOT USE any internal style hydraulic release bearing. They are prone to leaking and you have to take the trans out in order to fix them. In particular the McLeod bearing has a very bad reputation of leaking after only a few thousand miles (just google its reputation).

I have first hand experience with this because I am in the process of doing this very thing to my Chevelle right now. I assembled the engine/trans (TKO 600) about 1 year ago while restoring the car - fast forward to present day car has over $10k in paint and body and the motor/trans was installed without the front clip on the car. Last week, I was about 3 days away from "sea trials" and I was putting fluid in the clutch system....PSSSSSSSSS cracked o-ring, fluid all over the place.. Brand new everything, never driven!!! Can't remove engine and trans for fear of scratching the crap out of the smooth firewall and body color engine bay.. What to do? pull the trans from underneath with the car on jackstands.. 90 degrees with 80% humidity.. NOT FUN.. I am Replacing the entire assembly with an external pull type slave cylinder I got at speedway for 60 bucks (vs the $400 I paid for the Mcleod junk) If I had only known then what I know now I would be out cruising around in my 7 year restoration project instead of pulling apart a brand new car (yes 7 years and counting)

Pics of my original assembly including the TKO, The Mcleod Junk etc are posted in my gallery.

Last edited by SS66chevelle; 06-22-2010 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:54 PM
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Yeah mines still sitting in the box brand new and i have no plans for it except conversation piece.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:55 AM
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Hydraulic throwout bearing...

Did you ever use your hydraulic throwout bearing? I am using a Tremec TKO600 with .82 OD for my build. Planning on using a hydraulic throwout bearing. Where did you get your throwout bearing?

BTW, your car looks good. Nice blue color.

Dave
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:43 PM
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My '91 Jeep Commanche pickup had this type of release bearing stock from the factory. It had 126,000 miles on it when I replaced it and only because it needed a new trans...

Russ
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:14 AM
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No i havent muscarmad due to the throwout bearing distance to fork being wrong and i couldnt be bothered getting a spacer for it and also because of the probs if it leaks.

Just a example here of a pull type slave cylinder..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...-Inch,783.html
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:17 AM
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Yeah I have something very similar from Wilwood. Looks exactly like it except the color.

Hopefuly I can figure out the installation. I have the measurements but not sure how that translates into the number or thickness of spacer I should use.

Dave
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:26 PM
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After building a custom bracket for the pull type slave, I didn't like the geometry so I went to plan C which was the mid 80's S10 push type slave from autozombie, much simpler bracket and no issues with clearance to the exhaust etc. I used the pics on this site to build the bracket out of 3/16 plate. Works like a charm..

dont forget the return spring IMO an extra 45 minutes to fab a spring is worth it vs. several hours in replacing a worn pressure plate due to constant throw out bearing contact.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS66chevelle
After building a custom bracket for the pull type slave, I didn't like the geometry so I went to plan C which was the mid 80's S10 push type slave from autozombie, much simpler bracket and no issues with clearance to the exhaust etc. I used the pics on this site to build the bracket out of 3/16 plate. Works like a charm..

dont forget the return spring IMO an extra 45 minutes to fab a spring is worth it vs. several hours in replacing a worn pressure plate due to constant throw out bearing contact.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcrc.htm
Now that looks like a well made push kit. I use a Aussie push kit but its old tech now so im wrapped you posted this, ta. Good info too
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