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Doc here,
Read the post three times, not sure what your trying to achieve.. FIRST, What kind of vehicle is this? and where is the pump located AND does it have a relay? I think you just want a Fuel pump override switch for prolonged troubleshooting with the Ignition on? If I read it Correct?? If that's the case, FIRST be sure the Toggle switch contact ratings are up to snuff for the draw of the pump..If not , yes they WILL burn out... The Very most EASY way to do that is scrap all the grafting into the stock ignition harness, and where the power wire goes into the pump..snip that wire..attach a wire to each end (extend the wires) and install the Pump wire to the center wiper, and the pump power wire to the normally open side of the switch.. I. E. just place a switch in~between the pump and the power wire and extend the wires to wherever you intend to mount the switch. Doc
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Ignition Switch Help Help
Here is a diagram of how your pump is wired based on how you describe it.
I'm presuming there is a fuse blowing in the circuit? If its wired like the diagram, then most likely the wire that connects from the toggle switch to the fuel pump is shorting to the metal chassis somewhere. Check the wire carefully for nicks, make sure it passes through a grommet where the wire goes through any holes or the firewall. Is the fuse large enough capacity to power the pump? For example, a 2.5 amp fuse is probably too small for most electric fuel pumps. The pump could be bad, too. The rotor could be locked due to something stuck in it, causing excessive current draw. The pump windings could have failed and internally shorted out. Post how its going. Jon P |
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Found it
Hey guys thanks for all the help, Well I found it it was when I tightened up my toggle switch against my dash (it is a little curved) and the final tug to tighten was when one of my slip on connectors touched my dash, bingo blown fuse! Thanks again, Dana
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Quote:
Doc here, Glad to hear you found it! If it's that close you might want to put some heat shrink on the wires. Doc
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