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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 03:22 PM
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what do you think we bbq with . little mesquite , some 10w30, pepper and pina's. mmmmmm, mm

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 04:23 PM
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I cant belive I actualy read this thread....lol
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Old 06-05-2006, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilone
I cant belive I actualy read this thread....lol
==============================================

After painting cars all day, where else can you get this kind of entertainment.
For free at that!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
Bingo, its a fact that would and did cause the problem but I would have never guessed an experience painter in a high quality shop would use lacquer thinner to clean metal.
So no on the lacquer thinner huh, I always learn something here. So what should the hobbiest use to clean metal before priming?
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:18 PM
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ALWAYS use epoxy to bare metal, not some porous polyester primer
Correct me if I'm wrong, like I need to point that out , but polyester primer surfacer is a two part activated material like epoxy. It isn't porous like lacquer primer.
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGSKY
So no on the lacquer thinner huh, I always learn something here. So what should the hobbiest use to clean metal before priming?
Ideal cleaner would be a waterborne wax and grease remover and second best would be a solvent-born wax and grease remover.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
==============================================

After painting cars all day, where else can you get this kind of entertainment.
For free at that!
True Dat....as they say in......well no where by now......lol
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 06:54 PM
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Please correct me if I am wrong but wont polyester primer soak up water like a sponge?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2006, 09:21 PM
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I gotta say, if a guy has some light surface rust he'd be better off DA sanding it with some 80 or 120, cleaning it real good with wax & grease remover, and priming it with a good direct-to-metal epoxy. Believe it or not, it's safer and more effective to leave a bit of surface rust than to risk leaving some kind of weird chemical contamination!

OF COURSE, it's better to do it right with proper materials and procedures. But assuming there are some who would take this toilet bowl cleaner stuff seriously, just skip it and use a few more sheets of sandpaper instead...
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
what do you think we bbq with . little mesquite , some 10w30, pepper and pina's. mmmmmm, mm
Yup and some 90 weight for marinade..then we know you are hard core..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:50 AM
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As far as I know, a wax and grease remover will float contaminants to the top, so you follow that with a dry rag to wipe before it drys. Lacquer thinner or a reducer won't really do that I believe. I did work at a few places that would use reducer to wipe down after sanding before paint. Problem being that they flash off so fast and that isn't there purpose. Plus a wax and grease remover or prepaint cleaner isn't really any more expensive.

Never tried motor oil, (well maybe a little at times laying under a car changing oil or a pan gasket or something, didn't care for it) but probably have a few pounds of body filler in my system. Years ago a boss had some left over chicken, and me and my coworker took some home for lunch. After lunch he says, did it taste like bodyfiller to you. I said no, not really. He says, I didn't think so either, but my girlfriend said it did. I guess bodyfiller is an acquired taste, and if you consume enough of it over the years, you don't notice it anymore.

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 02:42 AM
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Once you clean a toilet with A-jax you'll never go back ... ...

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.( outside joke) keeping it a hobby


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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 05:44 AM
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i will never understand trying to save a few bucks on a paint job. one failure and you've created tons of man hours and the expense of redoing the job. if household products would work dupont would package and sell them. i buy the best i can find and use as much as needed. if 50 bucks worth of materials is too much to spend your in the wrong hobby.sell your car and go fishing. minnows are cheap.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
Once you clean a toilet with A-jax you'll never go back ... ...

.
.( outside joke) keeping it a hobby


Milo, I know you've been using Ajax for cleaning scuffing with excellent results but do you also use it for bare metal? Just curious what your bare metal prep proceedure is. Bob
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2006, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
Milo, I know you've been using Ajax for cleaning scuffing with excellent results but do you also use it for bare metal? Just curious what your bare metal prep procedure is. Bob

Don't want to interfere with his answer but it will work good on bare metal as well as "scuff stuff" but its very important that the rinsing is done very throughly and you must be very careful of the seams.
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