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Old 06-04-2006, 08:59 AM
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Toilet Bowl Cleaner!

Toilet Bowl Cleaner! That's right. You heard me.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner!
That's what I've been using to remove rust from sheetmetal.
Nothing fancy smancy like Lysol with fragrances or two part color changing BS. Just plain Toilet Bowl Cleaner I bought from a Dollar Store called THE WORKS .

Active ingredient: hydrochloric acid .

I use a stainless steel brush, pour a little on, and scrub until the rust is gone. Afterwards I'll wipe everything down with acetone before spraying on the Evercoat Slick Sand polyester primer surfacer .
Using the THE WORKS sure beats using the Dupont Green Phospheric acid solution I paid $18 for a quart.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner = $1 pint .
Go to your local Dollar Store , buy a few pints, and let me know how you like it.
OTAY!

Update:
I cleaned all of the rust off, as I said above, last night. I left it bright and shiny. This morning the metal was completely brown with rust. The humidity over night must have combined with the residue to make it rust. I went back and scrubbed off the rust with the TB cleaner again. I then wiped it down with baking soda and water to neutralize any remaining acid. I still recommend the TB cleaner for cleaning off the majority of the rust, just follow up with the rinse.

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Last edited by scrot; 06-06-2006 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:08 AM
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That is great it works so well, however I know of no situation where hydrochloric acid should ever be used on a car.

Hydrochloric comes in different solutions as far as percentages and I have no clue what is in that bottle.

I will say this, the main problem right now (not long term) is acetone DOES NOT neutralize hydrochloric acid. This could be a short term disaster when you apply your filler and body filler without worrying about long term metal disappearance.

This belongs in the endust file.

EDIT.
Now I just finished reading and you have already applied the polyester primer.
Polyester primer is a spray bodyfiller anyway you cut it and polyesters hate dried acid film and that is what you have. If it does not start peeling off when you block it, it will shortly after.
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:03 AM
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I don't know how well it works under paint like barry said, but Ive used it for polishing aluminum and chrome. Like if it has a little bit of rust or that green corrosion crap that aluminum gets, it will take it right off with no problem.
Ive also heard the Snow Bowl is the best one for it, but Ive only used the cheap lysol cleaners.


Brad
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Old 06-04-2006, 01:17 PM
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Hey, I like to try to save a buck as much as the next guy, but using a product like that, not even designed for use with paint is risky business. Pennywise and pound foolish IMO trying to save a few bucks on a product not designed to do what you are using it for, and then risking several hundred worth of product failing later finding out its not compatable.
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Old 06-04-2006, 01:53 PM
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17, I agree with you.

I don't mean to come off sounding like a p***k however when I see stuff like endust and toilet bowl cleaner I just can't help wondering what people are thinking.

First because something sprays well and dries OK does not mean it is any good, there is long term testing that needs to be done because if anything gets unbalanced the $1000 in materials you applied is going south fast.

I know people don't understand what I'm trying to say so let me try and explain how important preparation is.

Last week I had a call from a shop owner used my epoxy for years, hired a new painter well the epoxy after three days was bubbling in all the seams of the car. For 45 minutes we went over everything and everything was done perfect. Finally I said the only thing I know of that can cause this is Soda blasting or an acid film.
He assured me that did not apply, I said I pride myself in answering problems but I don't have an answer, sorry. He than said what if the metal was cleaned with lacquer thinner? Bingo, its a fact that would and did cause the problem but I would have never guessed an experience painter in a high quality shop would use lacquer thinner to clean metal.

A good friend of mine owned a thinner company had big market share but a Friend of his went with another company that sold one of the exact solvents he used and purchased the solvent, everything is the same, right? Right. Until two months after the first batch he made started turning yellow and stinking as it set and eating at paint gun cups.
He is now not a factor in the thinner business, all because of no testing.

I have worked 3 months on making an intercoat clear, I want it to be far better than anything out there and it is hands down and been confirmed by painters I have given a quart to, it beats everything at any price hands down.
I have made three small batches for testing, we have 30 + gallons on backorder and I have not even assigned a part number yet.
In the last batch all I did to change flow was the following.

I decreased the MEK and Toluene 5% each and increased the PM Acetate 10%. No big deal, nothing new has been introduced but I'm in my second full week of testing all over again and it will take another week just to make sure nothing else gets upside down because of this small change.
I'm getting B****ed at everyday because it is not ready but that is just too damn bad as it will be right or it won't be.

Guys stealing stuff from mommas kitchen to use on your paint job is nuts.
Every positive has a negative the last I knew but i never had new math so I don't know.
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Old 06-04-2006, 01:57 PM
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We used to use something similar in our motorcycle gas tanks when I was a kid. Can't remember the name? Cleaned out the rust real well, but I don't know if I would use it on anything I was going to paint?
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Old 06-04-2006, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrot
Toilet Bowl Cleaner! That's right. You heard me.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner!
That's what I've been using to remove rust from sheetmetal.
Nothing fancy smancy like Lysol with fragrances or two part color changing BS. Just plain Toilet Bowl Cleaner I bought from a Dollar Store called THE WORKS .

Active ingredient: hydrochloric acid .

I use a stainless steel brush, pour a little on, and scrub until the rust is gone. Afterwards I'll wipe everything down with acetone before spraying on the Evercoat Slick Sand polyester primer surfacer .
Using the THE WORKS sure beats using the Dupont Green Phospheric acid solution I paid $18 for a quart.
Toilet Bowl Cleaner = $1 pint .
Go to your local Dollar Store , buy a few pints, and let me know how you like it.
OTAY!

Update:
I cleaned all of the rust off, as I said above, last night. I left it bright and shiny. This morning the metal was completely brown with rust. The humidity over night must have combined with the residue to make it rust. I went back and scrubbed off the rust with the TB cleaner again. I then wiped it down with baking soda and water to neutralize any remaining acid. To be sure I wouldn't have any more problems, I followed that with the Dupont Phosphoric mix. I still recommend the TB cleaner for cleaning off the majority of the rust, just follow up with the rinse and the phosphoric mix.
==============================================
Change your story after everyone else posts??
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Old 06-04-2006, 05:16 PM
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[QUOTE=BarryK]************************************************** *********
What story are you going by????
After everyone else posts you totally change and edit your procedure?

Why waste everyones time?

I really doubt if anyone else on here cares if you recomend it or not.
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Old 06-04-2006, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
I still recommend the TB cleaner for cleaning off the majority of the rust, just follow up with the rinse and the phosphoric mix.

After using the phospheric acid, wipe it down before it dries on its' own.
Apply a good quality epoxy or primer, and you are good to go. I'd stay away from SPI products, however, like Barry said, those primers might not adhere very well and it might peel off.

Last edited by scrot; 06-06-2006 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 06-04-2006, 07:49 PM
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Sounds to me like that proceedure belongs in the toilet. Kitchen and cleaning stuff belong in the house. Next we will hear that you should use motor oil to fry food.

Aaron
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Old 06-05-2006, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
Next we will hear that you should use motor oil to fry food.

Aaron
Now wait a minute! Did you ever hear of a motor having high cholesterol? I didn't think so! LOL!
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:23 AM
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Barry , your a gluten for punishment .
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:52 AM
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I thought that is what Long Jon Silbers used, 30W Pennoil to fry there fish in!!
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:42 PM
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Can't argue with trying it, but not neutralizing it is a no-no. Also from everything I've read, ALWAYS use epoxy to bare metal, not some porous polyester primer...

Last edited by barthmonster; 06-05-2006 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 06-05-2006, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
Barry , your a gluten for punishment .
================================================
LOL!
You know I have never done anything the easy way but if i stop one person from trying something as stupid as this, thats all I want to accomplish.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++

Now wait a minute! Did you ever hear of a motor having high cholesterol? I didn't think so! LOL!

================================================== ==
From the my oil days some crude oil drilled in some parts was referred to as "sweet crude" TX and LA oil. Could be that means its high in cholesterol?
So if on Atkins diet I would use the synthetic like Mobil-1 just to be safe on those French fries.
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