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Too many Newbie Questions

2K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  BondoKing 
#1 ·
Hi all. Great forum.

Sorry for the book.

I hope I am not too far off topic, I am only working on a lowly VW Beetle, not a nice hotrod. :( In the past I have had a number of what would be considered hotrods, including a 1933 Willys Coupe AA/GS ... Does that buy me a in :)

I have read the FAQ along with a number of posts and other articles, but still have a number of newbie questions.

The car is going to be my daughters first car, and I fully expect will get a number of new driver dings, so I don't want to put a fortune into the paint. It has some rust pits, and has been repainted once in the past. I have cleaned the pits and welded up the few pinholes that had formed. I plan on using a little POR15 on the worst spots to help seal them.

I may have gotten ahead of myself before I found this site, and did some body filler on the bare metal. So right now I have a mixture of sanded paint, bare metal, some rust pits, and filler.


What I understand of the process

1. I would do the POR 15 first

2. Next would be a Etch Primer
2a. Should I remove the filler I have put over bare metal before doing this?
2b. Most of the etch primer I have seen sheets on say to only put it over bare metal. How do I avoid the old paint (and filler) and still cover all the metal.

3. If I understand correctly this is the stage that I should have done or should redo the filler.

4. Next would come a Urethane 2k sandable Primer.

5. Then a 2K Sealer over everything

6 and then a BC/CC or SS paint


Seeing that I am trying to do a budget job, but have reasonable results is the above the steps you would follow?

I am having a hard time deciding between BC/CC or SS. I am presuming a newbie might be better off with a SS? I am considering getting the DeVilbiss 2 gun set from Eastwood if that matters for paint selection.

The only thing I have found as far as a guide to amount of material to order is the Material Ordering guide on the HOK site. http://www.hokpaint.com/man/MO-GUIDE63.html This seems like a awful lot of material to me, ... is it inline with how much material you would buy for a VW Beetle? I probably won't paint anything again for years, so any leftover will probably sit until it ends up having to be disposed of.

I am very open to suggestions of brands and types of paint. I have read some good things about Southern Polyurethanes and their prices seem OK, but I have also read to use the same brand for everything, and they don't seem to have any real base color choices, and we want to paint this Orange.

The guy at the local paint store suggested PPG DCC but I didn't get a price yet.

Back to bodywork... I have one spot that has me a little concerned. I probably got a too much heat in the door panel welding up a rust pinhole. It is sucked in some and oil cans a bit. The back side is pretty hard to get at because of the door inner structure. Is there any articles on shrinking something like this to get rid of the oil canning?

I guess my biggest concerns right now are the application of the Etch Primer, the amount of material to get, and if on this type of job there is any places you wouldn't feel bad about cutting corners on.

Oh yeah, When it says 5 minutes flash time, I am thinking it is going to take me longer than 5 minutes to spary the whole car, and possibly have to refill the gun. Does it really take less than 5 minutes for those of you that know what you are doing to spary a whole car and be ready to spray again? What if it takes me 15 minutes ... am I in trouble?

Finally (you thought it would never end didn't you) If I start spraying the Etch primer and figure out I am in over my head, :embarrass can anyone recomend a decent backyard painter in the north Seattle area that might be willing to do this for a reasonable rate?
 
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#2 ·
Forget the POR-15. It's pretty much good for frame and suspension components but I wouldn't put it anywhere where you expect to have a good finish.

Forget the etch primer. Epoxy is the way to go. Etch was state of the art yesterday. Epoxy primer will last longer.

For your purposes I wouldn't worry about removing the filler you've already applied. It would have been better applied over the epoxy but for your daughter's first car I wouldn't be concerned.

The rest of your plan looks OK to me but some of our pros may offer alternate ways to go.
 
#3 · (Edited)
You got a LOT of reading to do HERE my friend.
For starters, Leave what body work you've do so far on the bare metal,it's fine as long as it's not over existing paint.
I'd 80gt at LEAST down to the original paint. Get completely rid of the second paint job for sure. Epoxy the entire car and then 180 the spots for further body work and get it done, spot epoxy over those areas when finished and 180 the whole car and shoot a polyester primer (Feather Fill,Slick Sand) and block it out till straight.If you cut thru,just shoot more over the cut thru and finish blocking. Finish sand the poly with 600 and shoot a good single stage Orange and go drive it. Which paint is up to your pocket book PPG,Dupont,ect all make great SS paints and it comes down to
"How much you want to spend"
A bc/cc is a better system but for your application I'd just SS it.Lot less work.

The only real "issue" with paint systems nowday's is the manuf. warranty as they don't like you mixing products. You can shoot ANYBODY'S paint over a polyester primer but they won't tell you that and will give you crap if you do.
BUT, You not being a "trained professional" the warranty is out the door anyway.

On the door oil can problem go see the guy's at
www.metalmeet.com BEST place on the Net besides HERE. :thumbup:
 
#4 ·
hok.com

I would stay away from hok.com, I sent them an email concerning some paint I was going to purchase from them along with most of my supplies I needed and they have yet to reply to my email and that has been 3 weeks ago. I also tried to call the 1-800 number and every time it picked up, the automated system would disconnect me. I ask about the site here and no one had anything good to say about them, I would recommend smartshoppersinc.com, they have the same HOK colors and I know you will get what you need from them. If you call the local store ( Louisville KY) ask to speak to John, he has been there for 11 years and works in the paint section... Here is the 800#.......1-800 541-0399 This connects you to the warehouse, they can answer your questions as well. Go with the single stage urethane, it will outlast the car for sure!!

BK
 
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