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Old 05-09-2004, 07:43 PM
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Too much engine?

O.K., here's my deal. I recently purchased a custom 66 Nova SS that has a completely customized body and interior. . what can I say, I fell in love!

The engine is a 406 and may be a little more than I bargined for. Here are the specifications that I got from the original owner.

406 four bolt main, roller motor, blueprinted & balanced
Forged 12 to 1 pistons
Holley 850 double pumper
Dart II aluminum heads, ported and polished
Hooker, ceramic coated wheel well headers
Billet valve covers
Moroso 8qt oil pan
Moroso electric water pump
Griffin aluminum radiator
MSD ignition with 7000 rpm rev limiter
Race built 350 transmission with 3500 stall speed converter
4.11, 9 bolt, posi traction rear end
Traction bars
Subframe connectors
B&M Pro-shifter

I bought this car right out of a 4 year storage. I have changed "all" the fluids and filled the tank with 93 octane, with 104+ additive. The original owner stated that this engine could be run on 93 octane, but I though it best not until I know for sure.

Anyway, I am on my first tank of fuel, 63 miles to be exact. The car runs, what I think is hot, in the 200-210 range, but cools quickly when idling. I really wanted a custom Nova, but got a little more engine that I wanted, but at the price I paid, I figured I could always deal with the engine later.

The engine runs great, and is very quick, as you might imagine. The original owner said it was tested after completion and ran an 11.7, 118 in street dress.

To the point. . . is this engine strictly for racing, or can I expect to be able to drive this short distances 30-50 miles, to cruise-ins and local shows without worrying about ruining the engine?

I realize I am standing here with my pants down guys, so go easy on me.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 05-09-2004, 07:55 PM
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Well, first off, please pull your pants up! LOL

Sounds like a lot of fun to me. The only thing that scares me is the compression ratio. Although a lot of other factors come into play, you need to pay close attention to pinging and detonation and the high dollar gas is a must!

As far as the 200 to 210 temp, that sounds fine to me. 230 to 240 i'd start sweating, maybe add a pair of high flow electric fans if its a problem.
Sounds like a blast!

Mark
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Old 05-09-2004, 07:59 PM
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with the price of gas nowadays you will definately be spending upwards of 2.50 a gallon. at least for the octane you will need to run that motor.
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:23 PM
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If it cools quickly at idle after heating up when moving you should see if it has a thermostat in it. I doubt that it does. Get a thermostat and rip the guts out of it. Use the disc with the hole in it to give some backpressure on the water pump. It's probably cavitating at any rpm above idle speed. That's why it cools off when you stop. Keep the temperature around 160 or so and you be kool and the gang with the pump gas.

Larry.
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:38 PM
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Congrats on the purchase of what sounds like a very nice car! Post some pics if you get a chance. Like Jmark said listen for any sounds of detonation (ie pinging). If you're willing and able to pay for the high dollar gas no worries over the compression ratio.

As for the temp, 200-210 is not overly hot but also does not give you much of a safety factor. One thing you could check very inexpensively would be the thermostat. I'm running a 180 stat and never touch over 190deg F. Then again I'm running a belt driven water pump. You'll probably get differing opinions on this but a good belt driven water pump might keep that beast running a little cooler as well. Good luck!
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:49 PM
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It has a pair of electric fans, but they have no temperature control, just a on off rocker switch on the console. I have been turning them on with the fuel pump and ignition and leaving them on while the motor runs. I have left them on after stopping, as the temp raises after shutting it down, as would be expected.

Is the octane additive a good idea? I have searched many forums and it is a subject of many beliefs. One responce said that the additives would eat your fuel lines? The origial owner said I might want to mix race fuel with high octane pump fuel if I heard any pinging.

What temperature thermostat shoudl I use? What do you mean by "use the disc with the hole in it"?

Is there anything to the claims of using special oils and anti-freeze to aid in engine temperature lowering?

Does the 8qt capacity oild pan aid in cooling?
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Old 05-09-2004, 08:54 PM
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summit sells antifreeze additives that claim to cool up to 40 degrees cooler.
as for your 8 qt pan that helps with oil cooling.

210 degrees is not a problem i wouldn't waste your time worrying about it.
octane booster's don't work all that well.
i would try to find 94 plus octane fuel.
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Old 05-09-2004, 10:25 PM
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i was using octane booster in my car as well for a while.i found an overwhelming majority of people saying that it was a waste of money.good advertising gimmick etc.
alot more people than i imagined use toulene as one source to boost octane rating.i found this small article on percentages of toulene to add to gas to get a set octane rating.i myself have never tried a home brew but there is alot of info out there on the subject.$3-$5 dollars a bottle for something that only adds .1-.3 octane doesn't sound very cost effective and not that much of an improvement as one would be led to believe.

Toulene
R+M/2...114
Cost...$2.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...94.2 Octane
20%...96.4 Octane
30%...98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.

Edit added Link:
this is the site with the whole article
Toulene Additive

Last edited by 65chevymike; 05-09-2004 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 05-09-2004, 10:44 PM
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A 66 nova SS..... WHERE'S THE PICTURES!


Need to see some pictures of this thing, got a 67 chevy II and it's a nice car, but my uncles still got that one.

Anyway, sweet buy. I would change out the rear to 3.23's if you want to cruise and be fuel efficient.

What was the price for this car?

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Old 05-09-2004, 10:44 PM
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I agree 210 is not a big deal, though it is a little warmer than I would like.

There are a few issues here, first off is the electric water pump, those are drag race only items (there are two out that claim to be streetable, Meziere and CSI). You will be money ahead to buy a Edelbrock Victor series water pump or a Stewart pump.

The next thing is the compression, if it is really 12:1 93 octane is NOT going to do the trick, you might get away with cruising under light throttle but, if you get on it you might do some serious damage. I wouldn't even take a chance I would run 110 in that thing.

Next the cam, you said it's a roller but, do you know if it's a solid or hydraulic? If it is a solid, do you know the specs? Chances are it is not made for the street, I say this because the car was built a while ago, the street rollers (solids) are just now starting to get "somewhat" reliable (I have been there and done that, very expensive mistake). If it is a solid roller you need to keep an eye on the lash and the springs. Depending on the size of the cam street driving could kill springs in a hurry.

Octane boost do not really work like most people think, if you add that 104 to 93 octane pump gas you are right about 93.1 or .2 it doesn't add whole points as they lead you to believe. While it doesn't hurt anything, the only thing it does is turn your plugs orange. shouldn't effect your fuel lines or anything.


Now for the heating issue, I would highly suggest running a 180* thermostat get a high flow fast acting stat, like a Mr. Gasket or Robert Shaw (same thing). Where is your timing set? If the guy was trying to cheat and run on pump gas he might have retarded the timing a bit, this will increase the engine temp. This is where you get in a catch 22 if you increase the timing you will run the risk of detonation, if you don't you have to deal with the heating issue. Run 110 octane and advance the timing, if it is retarded.


Congrats on the purchase of the new car I really like that body style. Make a few adjustments and get out and enjoy it. Just don't get too excited and ruin the engine before you have a chance to enjoy it.

Sorry for the long post but, I wanted to point out a few things.

Royce


Edit: Chevymike we were posting at the same time, I agree with you as you can tell. Good info.
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Old 05-10-2004, 05:55 AM
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camaroman7d, I have no idea about the solid or hydraulic. Is there a way I can tell? I have not really worked on car engines for some time, but used to in my youth and have no problem getting my feet wet again. I will do some searches for adjusting the lifters and timing.

Thanks all for the posts, I will no doubt be a regular here.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:53 AM
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The easiest way to tell if it's hydro or solid without pulling anything off is listening for a slight tick in the rocker arms. It shouldn't too loud, but it's usually evident. If not, they are probably hydro. To really check, you can pull the valve covers off, and check if there is any lash on the rockers (lash being any clearance from the tip of the rocker to the top of the valve stem). If there is none, then it's most definatly hydro. I'm anxious to see some pics as well...POST EM!!!
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:12 AM
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I would call the guy you bought it from and ask for some more details. He should know what cam is in the car. If not you can check as described above, just make sure the valves are closed when checking for clearance (cam on the base circle).

You really need to know what kind of cam is in it, if it sat for 4 years and wasn't started, if the cam is a solid roller there is a good chance the springs took a "set" and need to be changed. You at the very least will need to check and adjust the valve lash.

Royce
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:15 AM
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I would say by judging the tick, these are solids for sure! The tick is evident, not loud by consistent! The guy I bought the car from could not remember what cam is in the car, and the information I gave was all he had "written" down at the time. I have a gob of receipts, but nothing for the cam.

I wanted to get this thing cleaned before I took pics to post, should have something this weekend.
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Old 05-10-2004, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by camaroman7d
You at the very least will need to check and adjust the valve lash.
That may be something kind of hard to do without the specs of the cam, the lash is determined by the cam's mfg.
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