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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2008, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8hed
Has anyone got a pic of this set-up, just so I'm clear? Is there any danger of stripping the crank snout threads by doing this?

Thanks.
You shouldn't have any problems with stripping threads with this method.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2008, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS NE
How does that work on a 283 or 327 crank that has no threads for the installer?

Seeing as I've never built a 283 or a 327 I wouldn't know so I guess until I do then I can't call myself an engine builder.
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Old 07-02-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by engineczar
Seeing as I've never built a 283 or a 327 I wouldn't know so I guess until I do then I can't call myself an engine builder.
You must be an engine assembler LOL!!!!!!
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:40 PM
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i have seen more than a few crank gears split because of tapping them on. as carl said heat it up and slide it on.

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Old 07-03-2008, 01:06 AM
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On our blower engines we build we use the Shaffer/Wesmar gear drives and they highly reccomend heating the gear and sliding it on as it does have a lot of interfearance as it takes a lot to get them off.
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:45 AM
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For installation on a non-threaded crank snout, heat the gear as mentioned above, oil the crank snout and quickly tap into place using a piece of thick walled brass tube or even PVC tubing. Just make sure that there's nothing to interfere with the installation such as burrs or a screwed up key or keyway. Whenever I have a 283 or 327 crank re-done though, I have the crank nose tapped for a harmonic balancer bolt.
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