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Top of spark plug broke off!!
I have a 1973 American Motors Javelin 232 six cylinder. Cast iron head and block. I was changing the spark plugs and when I got to number 7 the top of the spark plug sheered off, when I tried to take it out, leaving only the threads and about 3/8 of an inch of the base sticking up still threaded in the head. Looking at it from the top whats left of the spark plug is cup shaped. I have been working on cars for years and have never had that happen before. Very frustrating. Plugs were installed with a torque wrench to factory specs, so it was not over tightened to begin with.
What is the best method or tool for removing this broken spark plug. thanks |
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If all the porcelain is gone, a good easyout will usually get them out. I have removed several like this that were rotted from age. You need to tap it in an a good snap will usually crack it free. I use a socket that fits the easyout and a breaker bar. You want to avoid slippage as it will send shavings into the cylinder.
Chet Last edited by T-bucket23; 03-06-2008 at 06:03 AM. |
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Easy out technique
Thanks for the info, do I need to drill a hole in the spark plug before I insert the easy out, or do I tap the easy out down into the spark plug like it is? I can see a little round circle where the electrode goes thru so it might go in there.
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Caution, Pt. 2
Oops, forgot the rest of the procedure. After you get the ceramic part out of the plug, don't drill the plug if you can help it, get the closest size EZ-Out you can find and try to get the rest of the plug out without getting too much schmutz down the hole. A little oil and a little heating and cooling will help.
I hope this helps, TR |
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Top of spark plug broke off!!
been in your shoes before
if it broke the part you put the socket on , your in trouble you want catch the tip or pull out the electrode that in the cylinder side . get a torch and heat whats left cherry red . ok , then spray with rust eater or good bolt loosening stuff . spray allot to cool it quickly . this will cause it to expand & contract and the penetrate will get in there better . use a big e-z out 3/8 and drive it in tight . let it cool completely then . then use a square pipe plug socket , sears has them . spray some more juice and keep downward pressure and keep it straight . i know it's a tight location and hard to get to being back cylinder . after it's out , you will need to use one them pocket magnets on a antenna pole you see at counters at parts places . fish out the tip of plug and electrode . then use a small vacuum hose taped to a shop vac hose to suck out ceramic guts left . you then should turn motor by hand to see if no stoppage occurs . using torque wrench on plugs , never done that in my life or seen anybody do it . i use anti-seize and hand tighten mine . good luck with it and try not to cuss it much , a vehicle is like a woman , you cuss em and get no where . |
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I Got The Spark Plug Out!
OK, I worried over this for two days trying to decide what to do. I finally decided to clean out the ceramic part that was left in the top of the plug. This left a cup shaped area. Blew that out with compressed air. I went thru my nut drivers until I found one that fit perfectly down in the plug. I took the guard off the end of my MIG welder (so I could get in that tight spot) and spot welded the nut driver to the top of the plug. It was a tight fit and a delicate operation. I put a socket on an extension and backed the old spark plug right out of there with a 3/8 ratchet. It worked like a charm. This is my first attempt at this so I was nervous about doing it, but it seamed like the best option. Finished the tune up and the car runs like new. I had a senior moment with plug number 7 in a six cylinder. It was the next to the last plug number 5.
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