Top things to do when buying a used motor to drop in. - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2012, 09:47 PM
HawkZ28's Avatar
I know Victoria's secret....
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Lincoln, NE
Age: 36
Posts: 108
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I recall being in a similar situation-minus the 3 year old. Working full time through full time college, no help with tuition or books or rent, etc.

Blew my tranny at 198k. Threw a rod 1/2 mile after the tranny.

Bought a parts car for $350. Got a 350/350 combo to get by, sold the intake and chrome for $150, and the parts car itself for $75.

Patience and timing (pouncing) are virtues on CL.

FYI- my last machine shop bill for cleaning and honing the shortblock and head work was about $1000 by the time all was said and done. That was 5 years ago- I'm sure it's gone up some since.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:30 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Outside of DFW, TEXAS
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Hey fellow Texan, have you tried the swap meets? My recent story:

I wanted a Chevy disc brake rear to replace my current Ford drum brake rear (long story). After going to the local swap meet and not finding anything and then checking Craigslist for a few days I found a couple people selling rears for $400 to $450. I ended up buying a '95 TransAm with blown engine. Guy wanted $1000 but I negotiated him down to $500 and I figured I now had the rest of the car for parts (trans, wheels, driveshaft, etc).

Due to circumstances beyond my control 3 weeks had gone by and I still hadn't done the rear exchange. That weekend was the Canton Swap Meet and I found a '85 Firebird disc brake rear for $100 and negotiated it down to $75. I then sold the '95 Transam on Craigslist for $800 so I ended up with what I wanted for free plus I made some extra cash cash because I went to the same swap meet twice.

You have a big swap meet starting tomorrow close to you :

DFW Swap Meet NOVEMBER 16,17,18 NEW LOCATION !!! GRAND PRAIRIE Lonestar Park I-30 & Beltline Road MORE INFO call 254-751-7958

I'm thinking about going and I don't actually need anything but just might find something I didn't know I HAVE to have
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:40 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Outside of DFW, TEXAS
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
Do you have a vacuum guage to carry with you? At least check the vaccum on the engine. Here is an article with a chart of vacuum readings and indications of engine condition. You can print out the chart and take with you to do the checks. Technical Articles: Engine testing with a Vacuum Gauge - at Greg's Engine & Machine
Great link, thanks !!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 10:13 AM
tgx's Avatar
tgx tgx is offline
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
FWIW, I have a 99 Yukon with 208,000 miles on it. Doesn't smoke or use oil.
It is my daily driver. Only things I've done to it since new. Alternator, Coolant 'quick connect' failure at
the intake manifold. I had the rear main replaced when I had the tranny rebuilt at 175k miles. Regular oil changes and I only run high octane fuel which I attribute to me not having the normal fuel issues you hear about. I will say at this point on cold mornings I am starting to get a bottom end knock that goes away once the engine reaches temp. It's going to have to get a rebuild soon but I think 200k is great and if you drive it responsibly you should get 200k easily.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 1,259
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 110 Times in 101 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRHeloPilot View Post
Hey fellow Texan, have you tried the swap meets? My recent story:

I wanted a Chevy disc brake rear to replace my current Ford drum brake rear (long story). After going to the local swap meet and not finding anything and then checking Craigslist for a few days I found a couple people selling rears for $400 to $450. I ended up buying a '95 TransAm with blown engine. Guy wanted $1000 but I negotiated him down to $500 and I figured I now had the rest of the car for parts (trans, wheels, driveshaft, etc).

Due to circumstances beyond my control 3 weeks had gone by and I still hadn't done the rear exchange. That weekend was the Canton Swap Meet and I found a '85 Firebird disc brake rear for $100 and negotiated it down to $75. I then sold the '95 Transam on Craigslist for $800 so I ended up with what I wanted for free plus I made some extra cash cash because I went to the same swap meet twice.

You have a big swap meet starting tomorrow close to you :

DFW Swap Meet NOVEMBER 16,17,18 NEW LOCATION !!! GRAND PRAIRIE Lonestar Park I-30 & Beltline Road MORE INFO call 254-751-7958

I'm thinking about going and I don't actually need anything but just might find something I didn't know I HAVE to have
The last swap meet I attended was the one at Decatur, TX in 1996. At that particular Decatur swap meet, the only item I purchased was a pair of un-issued 1963 Texas black and white license plates for my 1963 Catalina Sport Coupe 421 HO. Starting in 1965, I attended the Pate Swap Meet at Cresson TX for 29 consecutive years. In 1995, the Pate Swap Meet at Cresson Texas moved to Texas Motor Speedway.

I found a lot of good parts at Pate Swap meet, with cheap Texas prices. In 1993, one purchase I remember especially was a 1963 Pontiac Tri-Power set up, including the big air cleaner, correct carburetors and the complete vacuum linkage, for $200. I carried that damned thing out to my truck by hand and it near killed me. By 2000, I had collected four 1963 Pontiac tri-power set ups. The 1994 Pate Swap Meet was the last one I attended. Now I am disabled with a heart condition and arthritis and do not go to swap meets anymore.

Two years ago I sold my two 1963 Pontiac Catalina 421 HO and my Pontiac engines and collection of rare NOS and used parts to a race car builder and auto repair shop in Abilene Texas. Last year, the new owner won "Club Choice" with one of "my" 1963 Catalina 421 HO at a Car Show in Brownwood, Texas. The shop has various race cars including a 1963 Ford Falcon Ranchero Pro-Stock. I suppose it is a memorial to the late Jim "Mr. Ford" Butler's 1963 Ford Falcon 289 CI Ranchero NHRA Gasser from West Texas.

Last edited by MouseFink; 11-15-2012 at 11:59 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 02:48 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Westminster Md.
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What to waste.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK View Post
Well im just looking for some advice from the old school. About to go hear a vortec 350 out of a wrecked 99 suburban, it has 179,000 miles on it for 300 bucks.. Apparantly it runs very well with no smoke or leaks, We will see

300 bucks on the complete engine leaves me about 600 in the budget. Dad sais if it runs and doesent smoke or tick-knock with zero leaks i should leave it the F alone, drop it in and drive it till it dies then do the rebuild i really want. which sounds like a pretty good idea since im in a big hurry to have transportation.

It would just be really hard to not touch it and i dont want to get left high and dry one day with no cash to fix it.... I have a little money now and thats rare with a three year old at 22. Its only getting worse too.


Buy a used carb and intake, Have a valve job done on the heads , mild aftermarket roller cam and hopefully used headers? Or would my money be beter spent all in the bottom end and aquire top end upgrades as i go? Or do as my dad sais leave it alone and spend the money on front end repairs.
Your dad is about right. If money is tight, and whose isn't, don't spend any more than necessary. If it is as you say, (sounds good, no smoke other than a wisp at startup) putting umbrella valve seals on it is fairly simple and needed upgrade. Check the timing chain for excessive play by rocking the crank clockwise and counterclockwise (easy with the plugs removed) and watching the distributor rotor. A couple of degrees of slop is acceptable. Any more than that will require a replacement set. That motor already has roller hydraulic cam and lifters so they will be fine. You can upgrade the cam later as $$ become available. Intakes and carbs abound for a small amount and so do headers. I've worked on many with 200K+ that are still very healthy. New technology is great! In vehicles that have used the synthetic lube most of their life, I've seen 150-200K without any noticeable ridge in the cylinders and the motors run forever. The head gaskets are the only unknown and their condition depends largely on the service the cooling system received (PH level) so I would not bother them unless they need replacement. Clean it and spray it. Good luck. Tom. (ASE master 30+yrs, shop owner)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:34 PM
1971BB427's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Latest changes
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portland
Posts: 2,109
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 20
Thanked 376 Times in 333 Posts
It sounds like your dad is giving you good advice. You may have to at least swap the intake to get it carbureted to run without the computer if it's going in an older vehicle, but I wouldn't do anything more right away.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Buying a 95 Civic things to look for?? dirty dixon Hotrodding Basics 13 10-05-2011 02:46 PM
Power Steering Troubles 48'ford drop top jmiicustomz Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 06-19-2011 10:45 AM
Noticing small things...missing something, or is this motor on its way out? BigRoy1978 Engine 9 10-08-2010 09:36 AM
Buying a used motor 71haulnazz Engine 4 04-24-2009 10:59 PM
Things to check out when buying a new car k2mooch Hotrodders' Lounge 7 08-17-2004 04:34 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.