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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2006, 10:25 PM
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Do you mean you should return it to zero when your done?
Or the manufacturers reccomended setting. The way it works is (simplified) basically this: The setting sleeve is acting against a calibrated spring, which pushes against a deflection beam. At the end of said beam there is a ball, which fits into a detent in the ratchet head base (inside the torque wrenches "neck". The click you are hearing is that ball "snapping" out of it's detent. The sleeve is on fine threads, and the more you turn it to increase the setting, the more you compress the spring. Leaving it highly compressed for long periods of time will cause the spring to take a set, and no longer apply the correct force to the deflection beam, thus causing inaccurate torque. Backing off past the "0" setting can allow the spring to come out of it's pocket, and then be compressed unevenly, or more than you intend, thus causing inaccurate torque.



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Old 07-28-2006, 05:57 AM
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Not sure exactly how they work, but most clickers are spring style. You turn the handle and compress the spring. Leaving a spring in a compressed state tends to change its spring rate over time. This is why you either want to leave it unloaded (zero) or at 25 to 30 ft-lbf (value most manufacturers put in the instructions). Snap-on uses a different method on theirs. The adjustment doesn't load up a spring. I think it moves the fulcrum. You can leave them set wherever and it is not supposed to be detrimental. I still always drop mine down to the lowest setting out of habit.
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Old 07-28-2006, 01:32 PM
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i prefer to use this...

that 1/2 inch mac was off between 10 under (averaged 5 - 7 under across most settings) setting to 1 over (1 over @ 250 ft-lb) setting across the setting range of 50 to 250 ft-lb... not only do you have to be aware of accuracy but repeatability is a major factor... i therefore take a minimum of 3 clicks per setting and often 5, average and then do my graph so that i can interpolate my setting to achieve desired results.
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