Originally Posted by Jeepracer427
Well I went and checked some other things. My timing tab seems to be flipped in the sense that where most tabs would have a b or befor is where my a is. Same thing as where my b is. I don't know how much the lines on it are because it only has a zero. When I put my vacuum gauge on, at idle it reads 5in hg vacuum. Finally I checked my gear ratio...it is coming in at about 1.3/1 (one and one third driveshaft rotation to tire rotation). That doesn't seem right at all?? I forgot to mention the tire size is 32 inches.
There were three
commonly used dampers and timing tabs. Almost any damper can be used w/the wrong timing tab and that gives a false timing reading. To figure yours out and correct things if needed, see the page here
To figure out the gear ratio you can use several different procedures, more here
BTW, I know sometimes getting a bunch of links can seem like I'm "mailing it in". Trust me when I say that it's about the only way I can cover a large amount of territory w/o taking up a huge amount of time and space on your thread. I trust you'll understand.
5 in/Hg is WAY low unless you have a way rad cam in there. I'm guessing you don't have and cannot get (or can you?) the original cam card that was shipped w/the cam.
Start out by verifying the timing marks are showing you true TDC. This is key. Then see what the timing really
is if the lines were off.
Once that's done, set the initial timing (vacuum advance disconnected and line to engine plugged) to 24 degrees BTDC and see what the vacuum does. Now, you don't want to drive it like this because until the distributor is reworked, this will likely have the total timing too high. Timing too high causes detonation, and detonation kills engines. But as long as the engine isn't under a load- like when driven on the road- then you can over advance the timing w/o any damage to anything.
If it 'likes' 24 degrees, add some more just to see how the idle quality and vacuum reading responds. No need to go any higher than 36 degrees because that's all the timing you can run. This will give you a baseline to work from when it comes time to modify the distributor.